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IRHWELL'S 

EW IMPROVED 1885 

Self- Fitting- 



(jhartiSleeye System. 




FOR 



CUTTING 




LADIES', MISSES', AND CHILDREN'S 

FEB 27, 1005 



, 



IS. 




0NSDEDSY 



CENTENNIAL 

I COMMISSION \ 



OF WjlPH F 

TRADE MARK 

REGISTERED 
Feb. 11, 1873, 

RE-ISSUED 
May 30, 1876. 



PRINCIPAL OFFICE IN THE U. S., 

1229 WABASH AVE., CHICAGO. 



ntered, according to Act of Congress, in 18S5 by Wiixktt Cornwkll, in the Office of 
the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



* 



(No. 

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION. 

PHILADELPHIA, 1876. 



The United States Centennial Commission has examine 
report of the Judges, and accepted the following reasons, 
decreed an award in conformity therewith. 

Philadelphia, Dec. 21st, /. 

REPORT ON AWARDS. 



Product, Graduated Chart for Dress CutU 
Name and address of Exhibitor, Willett Comil 

No. J 53 North Eighth St., Philadelphia, 

The undersigned, having examined the product hereii 
scribed, respectfully recommends the same to the United [ 
Centennial Commission for Award, for the following reasons, 

Criminality, well fitted 
the piorpose intended, m 
eeonomieal in cost. 

W. O. Linthicum, 

Signature of the «"' 
APPROVAL OF GROUP JUDGES. 

Dietz Monnin, Modest Kittai 

M- P. Empey, Kanitz, 

B. F. Britton, Geo. Heivston, 

W. H. Chandler, E. N. Rorsforc 

A true Copy of the record. 

Francis A. Walker, 

Chief of the Bureau of A' 
Given by authority of the United States Centennial Commi 

tfKSl A - T - GOSHORN, 

1 J^frffi Director- General. 

J. L. CAMPBELL, J. R. HAWLE\ 

Secretary. Prei 



i a 

Index 

CornwelTs Purchasing Agency on Cover. 

Fac-simile Report of Award Given by Centennial Commission 2 

Introductory 4 

To the Public 5,6,7,8, 9 

CornwelPs New Sleeve System 10 

To Our Agents and Their Scholars 11, 12, 13 

How to Procure the Latest Improved 14, 15 

Where Agents Sign Their Names 15 

Our Premiums , 16 

Our Regular Yearly Prize to Purchasers •. 16 

Special Premiums to Purchasers 17 

Send Us $8, How to Send Money, etc 17 

How We Send Charts and Sleeve Systems » 17 

Lady Agents Wanted Everywhere 18 

To Dressmakers 19, 20 

Send for Private Terms— We Will Reward, etc 20 

DesignAA Cut of Plain Waist 21 

Cut of Measurement 22 

Directions for Using Cornwell's Improved System.. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 

Cut the Front Waist First 24,25 

Cut the Back Waist 26, 27 

Special Sleeve Notice 27 

Additional Important Directions, etc 28 

"Neck Size, Back Forms, Mark the Lines, Skirts, Allow for 

Seams, Garibaldis and Velvet Garments 29 

Open Backs, Low Necked Dresses, Yokes, Shoulder Seams 30 

Back Dart, Under Arm Seam, Fit Outsides to Tight Linings, 
Lap in Front, Sewing on Dress Braid, Stretch Skirt of 
Basque, Hook and Eye Pieces, Whale Bones, Clip the 

Seams, To Finish Inside of Waist 31 

Dolman, Cut Fig. F 32, 33 

Dolmans, Directions for Cutting and Making 34, 35, 36 

French, English and Common Sleeves 37 

Directions for Cutting Polonaise, Basque and Wrapper 39, 40 

Polonaise, Basque and Wrapper, Front and Back, Cut A and B. 41 

Walking Coat, Front and Back Cut and Directions 42, 43 

Ladies 1 Drawers, Cut and Directions 44, 45 

i Postillion or Riding Habit Directions and Cut 46 

Sack Chemise, Cut and Directions 47 

I Skirt Directions and Cut 48 

To Cut a True Bias, Directions and Cut 49 

Directions for li sing Sleeve System 50 

Photo Engraving of Our New Sleeve System 51 

A Miniature Chart Before Last Great Improvement 52 

A Few of the Million Letters Received. . . .53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60 



* 

INTRODUCTORY. 

We invite special attention to this enlarged Instruction Book, 
which has been prepared exclusively for our Agents and those 
using our Self-fitting System of Cutting. 

We have made these Illustrated Instructions so plain, and 
our Chart and Sleeve System with holes and figures so simple, that 
any person with ordinary intelligence can readily become a prac- 
tical Dressmaker in a short time without the aid of a teacher. For 
any lack of competence on the part of the learner, draft out a pat- 
tern and send it to us for inspection. 

The principles of this Self-Fitting System were first thought of 
by Miss Elmira Harroun (now Mrs. Cornwell) at 16 years of age. 

Her first Chart was a rough piece of pasteboard, on which the 
method of fitting the shoulder and ascertaining the size of the darts 
were marked with pen and ink, a puzzle which no one could figure 
out until Mr. Cornwell, a practical business man full of inventive 
faculties, discerning the great value of that unburnished diamond 
in his wife's cherished pasteboard, undertook to make it so plain 
that " he who runs may read. 1 ' 

After six months of hard study, a wood cut was obtained, a few 
Charts printed. These being tested, brought out valuable improve 
ments. Within a year a Copper- Plate was obtained in New York 
the engraving of which consumed months. From this Plate, the 
first Charts were manufactured in 1870. In 1876 we made our first 
set of Improved Colored Nickel Chart Engravings. It was thie 
Improved System that received the Medal and Diploma at the Cen 
tennial Exhibition that year. Since then we have made many im 
portant changes, the last of which was making the Darts smallei 
and providing for an Underarm Dart, thus meeting the wants o: 
the prevailing style. About this time we invented our Kefl 
Sleeve System, which has satifactorily filled a great popula 
demand in connection with our Chart. 

We have received Four Patents, nearly a score of Copyrights, an< 
our Trade Mark— " Cut of Measurement "—extending to us 3 
years' protection. 

Our present Improved System of Cutting is the result of 1 
years' experience, during which time we have spared neither ex 
pense nor pains to make it a Perfect Method, for cuttin 
Ladies', Misses', Children's and Infants' Garments of ever 
description. 

We have sold over a quarter of a million Systems without hearin 
the first complaint. Our Agents number over 20,000, who are sel' 
ing more for us to-day than is sold of all the worthless thing 
claiming similar merit in the country combined. 

We gain the confidence of our Agents and Canvassers b 
protecting them in their work, never sending into their territor 
our private terms, or allowing other Agents to interfere. 

We want the name, P. O. address and occupation i 
every Chart purchaser on our Premium JList. 

L<ady Canvassers and Liocal Agents wanted ever) 
where. Send to us for Private Term*, showing how to maL 
money easily where there is no Agent at work. 

Send postage for Chart and Instruction Book. Twenty cents t 
pay postage, if you feel able, will insure you a large lot of printe 
matter free. Every Lady writing us will receive a present free. 

WILLETT CORNWELL, 1229 Wabash Ave., Chicag 



*" 



« 

CORHWELL'S 

1885. NEW IMPROVED 1885. 

Self-Fitting 

Chart t Sleeve System. 



WILLETT CORNWELL, 
Inventor and Sole Manufacturer 



AMONG the latest practical achievements of human 
ingenuity, none challenge higher admiration than 
those calculated to enlarge the sphere of female useful- 
ness. Second in value to none of these inventions stands 
Corn well's Improved Self-Fitting Chart, as is 
"*ally attested by the cordial welcome accorded it wherever 
introduced, and the complete reliance placed upon it by all 
experts in dress-making. Ladies who recollect with horror 
the many closeted trials of disrobed endurance with the 
sisters of the pins and needles, will not refuse a half hour 
of their valuable time in investigating the merits of this 
truly useful and wonderful invention, and will doubtless 
ibe no less surprised than delighted to learn that dresses can 
be made up to fit perfectly any and all of the many dissimilar 
forms, without the annoyance of trying them on, by the use 
of Corn well's simple but accurately working plan. 

Mothers, ask your sons, — wives, ask your husbands, — if 
they could endure the cut-and-try-on system in the fitting 
and making up of a coat. Garments for the male form are 
made to fit perfectly by rule, without this annoyance, but 
that rule, in order to be practical, must be unerring and 
complete. This is precisely what we claim ours to be. 

- — — — s 



© , , 

6 CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 

Cornwall's Celebrated Self-Fitting Chart, 

with its figures, holes, and plain directions is an infallible 
guide by which any lady with a few moments' attention, can 
cut a garment for herself or any other person to fit perfectly 
without changing a single stitch, the first time trying on. 

It is truly remarkable how slow has been the progress in 
this matter from time immemorial ; and indeed it is only 
since the introduction of this valuable method that it was 
possible to convince the ladies of this country that the old- 
fashioned mode of fitting, so full of torture and so trying tc 
their patience, was no longer a necessity, and that it may 
be forever laid aside, as useless and out of date, so soon as this 
Chart has once been fairlv introduced, and its wonderfu" 
workings fully understood. 

To those familiar with this Self-Fitting Chart, 
trying, fitting and jjinning to the form becomes entirel) 
unnecessary and absurd, and thus Dressmaking, for the firs 
time, takes its rightful place among the useful arts. 

More than this, the elegance of form produced by th< 
use of this Self-Fitting Chart exceeds everything 
hitherto known in the art of Dressmaking. No forme 
invention equals this in accuracy and perfect adaptability 
in fitting any form, however disproportioned it may be 
So simple is this Self-Fitting Chart, that i 
knowledge of its working ean he obtainec 
from a few moments 9 instruction. The meres 
novice can comprehend it, and thus ever? 
woman can become her own Dressmaker 
There is a peculiar fascination, too, in every garment ci 
by it ; so much so, that the style of the dress is readily dif 
tinguishable from those cut by any other method. 

To substantiate the many statements made in its favoi 
investigate thoroughly for yourself, or read a few of the moi 
than fifty thousand certificates given to us by th 
leading fashionable dressmakers of the country. 

In short, it cannot fail, its every principle being based upo 

®- — ' ' ~"™ — — ' 



_ — — «_ — „ — _- _© 

SELF-FITTING CHART. 7 

ezactf mathematical rules. A brief comparison will show 
wherein this Self-Fitting Chart differs from, and is an 
improvement over any and all other systems now in use. 

In the first place, no other inventor has discovered the 
important measure taken from the upper edge of the neck- 
band, at the side of the neck, down on top of the shoulder 
to the hollow or clavical space, a rule which never fails, what- 
ever peculiarity there may be in the shape of the shoulder, 
and thus round, square, sloping, or hollow shoulders are 
perfectly fitted by this simple shoulder measurement alone. 

Then no other inventor has invented this mode of sub- 
tracting the measure around the waist from the measure around 
'he bust, putting the difference between the two measures, or, 
'a/XT of the waist, in the dart*. This rule, peculiar to this 
Self-Fitting Chart, whereby these darts or biases are 
formed, is a correct and unvarying one, and directly the 
•everse of all other models or systems in existence. 

The United States Government, after examining the 
numberless methods in vogue for cutting male garments, 
appropriated the best features of each, and from them i>ro- 
luced a rule both simple and complete, by which all the 
garments required by the army are made. By it, each 
separate part, as the collar, side-body, back, sleeves, etc., 
^re cut in different sizes and classified, the whole, when 
Drought together, harmonizing perfectly, and so all sizes 
u*e readily fitted, and the tedious process of trying on 
ivoided. Hitherto no general rule has been put forward 
)y which female apparel can be thus accurately and 
expeditiously cut and made up from measurement alone. 
I This need, so obvious and pressing, we claim our Self- 
Fitting Chart will satisfy, and so convinced are we of 
ts entire adaptability to the wants of ladies making their 
wn dresses that we court for it the severest tests in the 
r nost intricate cases, feeling sure that the longer it is experi- 
.( nented with, the more fully will the user be convinced of 
J ts usefulness and its superiority over all other plans. 

We refer again to our method of obtaining the waist 
neasure. If there was no taper to the waist there would 
ne no darts or biases required in the dress; or in other 

© 



&- --= 

8 CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 

words, if the bust measure was no greater than the wais 
measure, there would be no taper, therefore no darts. Th 
difference between the waist and the bust measure, that if 
the taper of the waist, determines the size of the darts. 

For illustration. — If a given bust measures 38 inche 
and the waist 24 inches, the difference, which is 14 inches 
will be the exact amount which must be taken up in th 
darts. Now, with the same bust measure and a waist tw 
inches larger, of course the taper is two inches less, requirin 
2 inches less for darts ; this, then, is the rule ; the less th 
difference between the size of the waist and the size of the bus 
the less the taper, and consequently the narrower the darts, an 
the greater the difference the greater the taper, therefore th 
wider the darts, and thus an unvarying mathematical princip. 
is established in following which a misfit becomes impossibL 
^ Hitherto, from the time of the invention of the first char 
(Fowler's Theorem, erroneously called Fowler & Wells' 
some 40 years ago, no true and universal rule has bee 
advanced, by which to fit the taper of the waist accuratel; 
most all having adopted the rule — " the larger the waist, tl 
larger the darts," without regard to the size of the bust c 
the taper of the waist. In other models there is little or r 
variation in the width of darts, they being usually about 1 
inches wide — the same for great as well as small tapers. 

Our theory of fitting the waist is exactly the opposite 
thfe, we claiming the bust to be the only part the darts a] 
supposed to provide for and fit ; and to attest its superiorii 
in all points we refer to the unanimous verdict of mo: 
than a hundred thousand who daily use and advocate i 
having abandoned all false theories. 

Another erroneous principle in all other methods is th 
of cutting off the cloth at the side seams, and putting 
narrower darts, thus creating a continual drawing down aero 
the bust from the back of the neck, without any appare 
cause, thereby destroying the symmetry, and making t? 
dress set uncomfortable to the wearer. Our system obviw i\ 
all this, by gathering up the whole taper of the waist in dar 
and placing them directly under the projection in front. 

These invaluable rules are as much a requisite for 
good experienced dress-maker to make up an elegantl 
fitting dress, as a 24-inch square is to the mechanic in la 
ing out his work, no matter how much practice she m: 
have had in the old art of cut-and-try-on. A carpent 
would be at a loss to build a flight of stairs or do any oth 

m ! — ; 



SELF-FITTINQ CHART. 9 

exact piece of work, without a rule or square, the main 
working tool of his profession. This rule applies to the 
practical mantua-maker, no less than to the unskilled 
housewife. 

This Self-Fitting Chart can also be used in cutting 
tight-fitting cloaks, basques and sacques, while the whole 
[lpper portion can be made available in cutting coats, its 
[•ules forming an infallible guide in cutting any garment 
requiring a nice waist or shoulder fit. 
I This Self-Fitting Chart is composed of only two 
Pieces, and in them is embodied more than in any and all 
jther charts, models or systems combined, providing as it 
loes for 26 waist sizes, 26 bust sizes, 26 neck sizes, 9 
ihoulder measures, 15 dart sizes or taper measurements, 
ind an 18 inch gauge for cutting Trimmings, and a rule 
or drawing a complete back form, together with a scale of 
izes sufficiently ample to embrace every variety of form, 
dther of children or adults. 

It is the only system in the world that will 
produce a perfect-fitting dress from mea- 
iurement. It will transform an ordinary apprentice girl 
tito a first-class dressmaker in a few hours. Furthermore, 
he proprietor agrees to forfeit $5,000 wherever this Self- 
fitting Chart fails to fulfil all that is claimed for it. 

This Self-fitting System is never sold in paper 
heets, but are always made of the best material possible, 
irhich will last a dress-maker for years, all tastefully finish- 
d and ready for use. They are beautiful in color and de- 
ign, an ornament to any drawing room and a twin sister 
o a sewing machine. 

Principal American Office, 

11229 WABASH AVE. 

23et-weezi IStla. a,n.cl 13tla. Sts. 



CHICAGO, ILL. 



■* 



)J4« . - 

10 CORNWBLL'S 

Improy'fl Self-Fitting System for Cutting Sleeves 

This new System will cut sleeves of all sizes, for both 
children and adults, and works perfectly in connection 
with the Cornwell Self-fitting Chart in dress cutting. 

This new Sleeve System, we are bold to say, is no 
guess-work method for Cutting Sleeves, but a perfect suc- 
cess in all its workings. It is an invention of much 
study and experience, ^and is the first and only one in 
existence deserving the name of Sleeve System, and we 
are proud that it is receiving the unbounded success it 
so richly deserves. It is beautiful in design, simple in 
construction, and worth more than ten times its cost to 
the happy possessor. Any lady can use it; needs no in- 
struction, and cuts all sizes perfectly without re- 
fitting. We know from years of experience that this 
great want so long felt is now fully met by this 
never-failing sleeve system. It is but the work of 
a moment to cut to a certainty by this method, without 
waste of material, a pair of sleeves of any size, to fit per- 
fectly without refitting. We claim that enough material 
can be saved by this new system in cutting a few 
sleeves, to more than pay its first cost. It is undeniable' 
that great trouble is always experienced by the old way 
in getting a perfect sleeve, and nothing renders the 
dress so uncomfortable as a bad-shaped sleeve. 

JSvery lady should remember that with a C©rn« 
well Self-fitting Chart and our System ir 
band she has unfailing control of all modern science ir 
dress-cutting. You should lose no time in making the 
necessary purchase from your home agent, but shoule 
there be no agent near, you can then apply ai 
once to our office at Chicago, where full particular: 
regarding prices and agencies will be given. As 
active lady agent wanted in every 1©' 
cality. 

See our premium list and special offer to pur 
chasers, a chart given free, etc., on other pages. W( 
want the name and address of every chart ^ purchaser 
Send to us for private terms where there is no activ p 
agent at work. 

\tf. 15.— ?*ee ©ur Purchasing Agency or 
first page, our Premiums, and a few of the man] 
tens of thousands letters we have received of like imp 
port in back of book. Write us. 

Hk-~ — — — ' ' 



CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 11 

TO OUR AGENTS AND THEIR 
SCHOLARS. 

To insure perfect success in the use of the Cornwell Sys- 
tem of Dress-cutting it is absolutely necessary that you 
acquire a practical knowledge of its easy workings from 
the Agent or Canvasser at the time of the purchase. Bear 

in mind the agent is the only one fully 
qualified to give you personal instruction 
and to demonstrate to your perfect satisfac- 
tion the great merits of this Self-fitting Sys- 
tem of Dress-cutting. 

There is nothing difficult about this that the agent cannot 
readily impart to the newest beginner; all that is required is 
hat earnest attention be given to the figures, pencil lines 
ind personal instruction of the teacher to make you a good 
ind competent dressmaker in a few hours. 

This Self-fitting System of Dress-cutting fully meets 
he wants of ladies who desire the Science of Dressmaking 
without the much dreaded apprenticeship. 

Ladies with Sewing Machines find this System invaluable. 
Df the 100,000 in private families, not one would be parted 
yith for ten times its cost. Examine it, test it and you 
Mil prize it above your sewing machine, 

J No lady should miss this golden opportunity to 
obtain from the agent the only First Premium System 
f Dress-cutting in the world. 

The agent will surprise you with its wonderful work- 
ings. Do not fail while the agent is here to make your 
urchase, and to get for yourself our five measurements 
-the Shoulder, Bust, Waist and Taper measures, and 
hereby see the wonderful improvements in the new 
rt of dressmaking. It Is worth more than $100.00 to 
ou. 



9 



'* 



►*■ 



12 SELlT_iria?TING^ CHART. 

Purchasers need have no fears but whatever is claime< 
for this simple and perfect System of dress-cutting the 
can easily and quickly comprehend. More than half 
million have been instructed in the use of this Self-fittinj 
System successfully. On account of its great merit it ha 
become the only reliable system of dress-cutting throughou 
the civilized world. 

This fact was fully demonstrated at the great Centennu 
Exhibition, when Cornwell's Improved Self-fitting Sys 
tem attracted great attention in competition with all th 
charts and systems of the world, and won the unqualifie 
admiration of the most experienced and practical judge; 
who witnessed its marvelous workings. For its great supei 
iority it secured over all competitors the highest possibl 
award that could be given by the Commissioners. The d< 
cision of this august body of the world's judges is unhes 
tatingly ratified by more than a quarter of a millio 
of happy possessors of this system of dress-cutting. 

Purchasers will please take notice that after this seaso 
the retail price of the Cornwell Self-fitting Systei 

will be advanced 

Parties who receive this book from the agent to read an 
do not wish to purchase will confer a favor by handing it t 
some one who may. 

In order to arouse the interest of the person to whomyc 
would sell, and gain a patient hearing, it is suggested th* 
you cut and baste a lining for the party on the spot. 

You will many times be repulsed in attempting to gai ] 
a hearing from superstitious dressmakers; they havnV 
long ago adopted some one of the many superannuate 
systems now no longer Entitled to shelf room. A dee; 
rooted though unreasonable prejudice will often meet yc 
with the remark, "I find no trouble in fitting; I nev 
have a misfit," etc., and then you are triumphantly refer 
ed to their success in the old-fashioned method of fittirj 
to the form, or to some favorite model which in their oph 
ion is perfect. These statements you can and should t 
prepared to meet, respectfully of course, pointing out t 
them that all other charts are limited to a single rui 

for fitting that most difficult part of the form, tti 

Shoulder. Now, differing as the shoulder does in almoij 
every person, in one being square, another round, amoth<j 



I . — i — — — i — - — , — - — ^- % 

CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 13 

high, another low, another hollow and another sloping, it 
can be made self-evident that no one arbitrary rule 
is competent to produce a fit in all these dissimilar cases. 
Here is then the great superiority of this Chart. 
By the use of some one of these measurements, all cut and 
try guess-worh is done away with, and an abso- 
lutely perfect fit is sure to follow. It will be easy, 
furthermore, to show them the impossibility of cutting and 
making up a dress complete with neck -band and sleeves all 
on to fit elegantly their own form by pinning on or according 
to their old way without even once trying on, at the same 
time calling attention to this Self-Fitting Chart, how 
easy this hitherto impossible proceeding is now rendered 
practical and certain by the use of this system only. 

In order more fully to illustrate the defects of all other 
charts, models, and systems, from Mme. Simpkins' down to 
old Granny Perfection's model, you will request the owner 
of any such chart to draw out on paper, according to its 
rules, a pattern of her own waist, while you draw one of the 
same person by this Self-Fitting Chart directly over 
it on the same paper, matching them at the lowest point of 
the neck to begin with. You will at once see that both 
cannot fit the same form, but when the lining cut by this 
Sell-Fitting Chart is tried on, the controversy ends ; 
the comparison of this system with all others 
decides the question at once and forever. 

Agents for the sale of this Self-Fitting Chart will 
be at particular pains to explain the workings of the Chart 
to all sewing machine dealers, pointing out its advantages 
and showing wherein it excels all its competitors, calling 
attention to the inducements offered them by combining its 
circulation with the sale of sewing machines. 

No Chart must be left on trial. Never attempt 
to sell until you have thoroughly explained the principles 
of the Chart in detail. After once showing all the 
merits of this Self-Fitting Chart, marking out all the 
different shoulder seams, etc., to a customer, pay 
should be demanded, when full and complete instruction 
thereto will be given or the money refunded. 

When convenient, the party investigating the merits of 
this Self-Fitting Chart should produce material from 
which to cut a waist lining so that its superiority to the 
old system of cutting and trying on may be clearly 
demonstrated. Never try on over the dress. 

i : m 



__- 



* 

14 CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 

HOW TO PROCURE 

CORST WELLS 

IMPROVED CHART 

SLEEVE SYSTEM. 

We desire to secure an active, intelligent lady in every 
town to represent our Chart and Sleeve System. It will 
be readily understood that a business like ours, extend- 
ing to nearly every town in the United States and Can- 
ada, and to many foreign countries, must be transacted 
principally through local agents. We want but one 
agent in a place ; our plan is to appoint one for every five 
or ten thousand inhabitants, or double that number, if the 
agent is energetic enough to control the whole trade, 
which is always desirable, even when three times as much 
territory is given. It is expected that the agent will 
possess a practical knowledge of the Chart and givef 
thorough instruction in its use when making sales. 
Agents tell us our Systems not only sell themselves but 
actually create a demand which multiplies in ten-fold ! 
ratio, inasmuch as for every one introduced into a neigh- 
borhood sales are secured for at least a dozen more, and 
thus a sure income is assured to the agent with very lit- 
tle effort. In selling this Chart you will find that one 
customer makes two, two make four, four eight, etc., 
when its popularity soon becomes universal throughout 
the neighborhood. There is no article so suitable for a 
lady to sell as the Cornwell's System of Cutting, and 



. - * 

SELF-FITTING CHART. 15 

tothing that yields so much profit to the seller, and such 
gratification to the buyer. Agents never fail to sell our 
lystem. A few sold each month at the regular price 
rill yield a handsome profit besides the Commission 
rhich we offer the agent for appointing Sub- Agents for 
ther localities. We have thousands of inexperienced 
anvassers who are only Sub-Agents making $10 to $20 
ler week profit, appointed by the regular agent, whose 
Lame should appear in the blank space on this page, 

— Agen t. 



7he regular agents reaping the greatest commission 
Lave taken the most pains in selecting for Sub-Agents 
uch women as have had experience in teaching, 
ir selling machines, books or canvassing then drill. ng 
uem thoroughly in the good work. Parties de- 
iring Sub-Agencies must first apply to the regular 
,gent nearest them, who will most likely have the power 
o appoint Sub-Agents for the very location most desired ; 
tut should no agent be known and no name appear in the 
dank you may presume that no agent has been appoint- 
d for your locality, when you are requested to write to 
>ur principal office in Chicago, at once setting forth the 
act that no agent is engaged in such neighborhood, and 
eceive all desired information by return mail . We de- 
ire the names and addresses of all our agents and Chart 
mrchasers, and their occupation, whether milliner, 
Iressmaker, teacher, farmer's wife or daughter on our 
ecord-book, that we may protect all concerned in their 
espective rights, and be enabled to fairly award the 
)rizes described elsewhere. This request is absolutely 
lecessary, and should be strictly complied with. It is 
'urther expected that dressmakers having apprentices 
viH supply them liberally with our System of Cutting, 



* 



i« OUR PREMIUMS. 

As a further inducement to our agents to use thei 
best efforts to extend the demand for our System of Cu j 
ting, and as a guarantee of our appreciation of their ei 
terprise in our behalf, we offer the following prizes to b ! 
contested for : 

First Prize:— One "NEW HOME" sewing mi 
chine with drop leaf, cover, drawers, and all the lates 
attachments, the handsomest and best sewing machiD 
in the market. The regular price of this machine is $5. 
This Valuable PRIZE will be presented to the ager 
disposing of the greatest number of Systems during th 
year, and awarded on the following New Year's day. 

First Prize awarded Jan. 1st, 1885, to Mrs. A. ]V 
Clement, Fennels, Canada. 

Second Prize: — Two dozen Charts and Sleev 
Systems will be awarded on the same day to the ager 
disposing of the next largest number during the year. 

Awarded Jan. 1st, 1885, to Lizzie Rieth, Port Washing 
ton, Wis., Mrs. M. J. Gardner, Rochester, N. Y. 

Tliircl Prize : — One dozen Charts and Sleeve Sy: 
terns will be awarded in like manner to the agent dii 
posing of the third largest number during the year. 

Awarded Jan. 1st, 1885, to Mrs. E. M. Brewer, 895 N 
agara St., Buffalo ; Cornelia Peavy, Sykes Mills, Ala. 
OUR REGULAR YEARLY PRIZE TO PURCHASERS. 

The name of every purchaser of a Cornwell Chart du: 
ing the year should be sent to us to be recorded in our lis 
of patrons, who will participate in the grand drawing t 
be held on New Year's day of each year. The draw in 
will be for a NEW HOME sewing machine, same a 
the above. This is a chance for you to get a fine sewin 
machine free of charge, and every purchaser should tak 
advantage of this offer and send in her name to be er 
tered on our prize list. All the prizes will be publishe 
as soon as awarded. 

This prize was awarded, by impartial ballot, Jan. Is 
1885, to Mrs. A. J. Diamond, Whitesboro, Tex. 

This is to certify that I have this day shipped Tw 
First Class Sixty-Five Dollar Hartford Sewing Machine 
(with every attachment complete)— one to Mrs. A. M 
Clement of Fennels, Canada, the other to Mrs. A. j 
Diamond, Whitesboro, Texas, said ladies having bee: 
awarded such prizes for last year. Wm. M. Durell, 

(Signed.) Agt. Hartford Sewing Machine Co., 

Michigan Ave. and Jackson Sts., Chicago. 

Dated Jan, 2d, 1885. 
< _ L ^ 



. # 

SPECIAL PREMIUMS '" 

TO BE GIVEN TO EVERY LADY 

Who will send us, within the year, orders for a certain 

number of our Improved Self-fitting Charts 

with Sleeve Systems as follows : 

$IOO IN GOLD 

For 600 Charts with Sleeve Systems. 

X Ladies' Fine Gold Watch, - - Value $50, 

For 150 Charts -with Sleeve Systems. 

\ First-Class Sewing Machine, - Value $35, 

For 100 Charts -with Sleeve Systems. 

I*he Material For a Silk Dress, - Value $25, 

For 75 Charts with Sleeve Systems. 

* Fine Cold Necklace and Locket, Value $15, 

For 50 Charts with Sleeve Systems. 

rhe Material for a Cashmere Dress, Value $ 1 0, 

For 25 Charts with Sleeve Systems. 

Any lady entitled to either of these premiums can 
nave the value of the premium exchanged for Charts or 
Sleeve Systems at our regular rates if preferred. 
1 It is not absolutely necessary that, orders entitling the 
mrchaser to a premium should be sent us at one time, 
jut may be ordered from time to time within the year. 
iiVhen orders calling for either of the premiums are re- 
vived by us it will be sent by request immediately. 

Any lady sending us $8.00 or more will receive the 
r alue in Charts and Sleeve Systems at our Wholesale 
Mces, free by mail, providing there is no active agent 
n her locality. 

We send our Private Terms to those desiring agencies 
^here none exists, showing how to make more money 
ban by any other way possible. Write us at once. 

Local agents and lady canvassers wanted everywhere. 
; Charts and Sleeve Systems sent by mail on receipt of 
>rice, with books, circulars and show card, and warrant 
hem to arrive safe. 

Charts and Sleeve Systems may be sent by 
xpress collect on delivery, at your expense, if so ordered. 
! Send money by P. O. order, check or registered let- 
■' esr. Five dollars or less may be sent in our return en- 
elope at our risk. Will receive P. O. stamps for change. 

On receipt of postage we will send Chart and Instruc- 

on Books free, and to insure you a large package of 
rinted matter send us twenty cents to pay postage, if 
ou feel able. Write us. Address WILLETT CORNWELL, 
1*«9 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO. 
— -- - ■ . ^ , — .-u,.„4l < 



i Lady Agents Wanted 



(0 

3 
t 



< 



i 



EVERYWHERE, 

FOE COKNWELL'S SYSTEM OF DftESS-CUTTIMB. 



One G^art* pleeve pysterp 



Ed 

§ 
U 

> 

I GIVEN FREE! 



Any lady who will use her influence to in- 
duce some active lady to send us an order for 
ft! "Qt less th ~FOUR CHARTS and FOUR 
Q 'SLEEVE SYSTEMS, will receive, FREE 



OF CHARGE, for her trouble, ONE CHART 
AND SLEEVE SYSTEM, as soon as we re- 



ceive such order; besides, both parties will 

tC be classed in the drawing: of the SEWING 

^ — « — . « ,-S— . , 

I MACHINE first of the year. 

O 

© BE PARTICULAR TO NOTICE, The very 

© important change we have just made in our 

(13 chart. By reducing the darts, and making 

JS provisions for an underarm dart, we fully meet 

** the wants of the present style of fitting. 

2 Address, 

£ WILLETT GOUNWELL, 

1229 Wabash Ave,, CHICAGO. 



f . © 

CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 19 

TO DRESSMAKERS. 

HUMBLE, patient dressmaker, please peruse this 
pamphlet fairly and impartially, and resolve not 
to frown upon or disparage the efforts of the advocate or 
agent who offers to shed new light upon your pathway 
by simplifying your labors and ameliorating your per- 
plexities, but give your thoughtful attention to the newly- 
discovered merits embodied in this Improved Self- 
fitting Chart, and avoid the repetition of that old story 
so often told to agents — " I have no trouble in fitting ; my 
pattern or model gives perfect satisfaction ; I am satisfied," 
etc., remembering, dear Madam, that all improvement is 
entitled to, and must sooner or later obtain recognition. 
Tour pinning on cut-and-try-system is fast 
becoming unpopular and superannuated. 
You are now working in the same old way in which your great 
grandmother fitted dresses, simply because hitherto you 
have found no improvement worthy the name, or any other 
method which would stand the test of practical use. There 
has certainly been but little progress in this art for the last 
eighteen centuries. Dressmakers fit on now precisely 

AS THEY DID HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO. Therefore for 

your own benefit embrace the first opportunity of examin- 
ing this new system and remember the old precept, 
" Prove all things ; hold fast to that which is good." 

By using this Self-fitting Chart, no dress-making 
business need be circumscribed. The exact measurements 
can at once be taken of all customers, no matter how numer- 
ous. Coming as they usually do, in the middle or busier 
part of the day, while the earlier and later hours may be 
employed in cutting the garments from the measurements 
previously taken, obtaining as perfect a fit as 
though the customer herself were present. 
" This is all easily said," you remark, with a smile of 
incredulity, but when you have become acquainted with the 
principles of this Self-fitting Chart, their accuracy 
and simplicity, you will cheerfully certify, with hundreds of 
thousands of others, to their practicability and the great 
saving of time and labor effected by its use. 

Who does not remember, upon its first introduction, the 
hue and cry about the Sewing Machine, that poor woman 
would have nothing to do ; that the sewing woman's occu- 
pation was gone ; that the bread was taken from the mouths 
of suffering, struggling, working females to add to the 
accumulations of the already rich and independent manu- 
, )g 



m 



20 



SELF-FITTING CHART. 



facturers ? Time has proven the groundlessness of this fear, 
and now, thousands of womeii look upon this machine as 
the main stay of their existence, their sure support and 
provider. The Cromwell Self-fitting Chart fulfills 
the same beneficent mission, and now these two great inven- 
tions must be regarded as the wings which will waft the 
sewing woman from the gloom and despondency of an 
over-wrought and under-paid laborer to the dignity and 
independence always the due of patient, persistent industry. 
Therefore, dear dressmaker, for humanity's sake as well as 
for your own, advocate the utility of this Self- 
fitting Chart. Sanction it by daily using it, 
and do not hesitate to certify to its great worth and the 
material aid you derive from its use. Eidicule cannot harm 
nor prejudice arrest the onward march of any genuine 
improvement. Accept, then, this latest benefaction, and so 
obtain additional credit for your work, better customers and 
a wider popularity. The shrewdest guessing, so much of 
which accompanies all other patterns, cannot compete 
with that mathematical certainty which is the basis of all 
our rules and measurements. 




©■ 



Cornwell's Tmproyed Directions for Cutting. 



"8S 





£<ady Canvassers and I^oeal Agents want 
ed everywhere. Oa receipt of $8.00 or more, we will 
send the value in Charts and Sleeves at wholesale rates 
also our Private Terms, showing how to make 
money easily where there is no agency, by return mail 
We Protect Our Agents. Write me about Agency. 

WILLETT CORNWELL, 

ISaWabashAvenne, - - CHICAGO 



fp- 



S- £< 

DIRECTIONS FOR USING 
GornwelPs Improved 

Self-Fitting 

SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING. 



These directions apply to the Improved 
Chart with Lower Dart Scale improved and 
the under arm Dart provided for; also refers 
to the use of our new | rn proved Sleeve Sys- 
tem. 

Take the Measurements of the person (see 
cut of measurements) and set them down on paper like 
the following — these represent an ordinary sized person; 



Bust measure 38 

Waist measure 24 



Taper measure the dif-j,^ 

f erence for Darts .... 
Hollow of Shoulder ... .3^ 
Size of Neck 13% 



Length of Waist 8 

Length of front Waist. 18 
Length of back Waist . 16 

Length of Sleeve 22 

Length Skirt in front. .41 
Length Skirt at back . . 42 
For long or Short Shoulders for dress see 7th direction. 
. 1st, Bast Measure.— Stand at the back of the 
person, pass the tape measure under the arms and bring 
around loosely over the largest part of the bust — well 
supplied with artificial fullness if any is intended to be 
worn. 

2d, Waist Measure.— Take snug around the 
waist about 8 inches below the arms. 

3d. Length of Waist. — Measure with tape line 
on the side seam, from the arm hole downward. 

4th. Shoulder Measure to Hollow.— 
Place tape at the top of the band at the side of neck and 
measure down on top of shoulder to the hollow — this 
hollow is easily found by slightly raising the arm 

5th. Taper Measure for Darts.— Subtract 
waist measure from bust measure and the difference 
will be the taper number to be used in Dart Scale " M." 
6th. Extra Waist Measures. — Find the 
length from the shoulder seam at the side of neck down 
in front to the waist line, and the length from the neck 
band down the back to the waist line. This PROVES 
the length of the waist. 



24 CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting. 

[Directions Continued.'] 

7th. To Regulate the Length of Shoul- 
der of Dress, take measure from bottom of neck 
band. down the shoulder seam the distance required. 

8th. Sleeve Measure.— Take from the back of 
arm hole down over the elbow to the wrist with arm 
bent. For full and complete directions see Sleeve System. 

9th. Neck Measure.— Take the measure around 
the neck at the height you wish dress when completed. 
Trim out to suit the size and style desired. 

CUT THE FRONT WAIST FIRST. 

10th. For a Plain Waist with sleeves use a 
yard and one-quarter of good lining, which is usually 
40 inches wide; keep folded and pin together and 
lay it with selvage edge next to you on the table. For 
a plain waist and sleeves of ordinary size and how 
drafted on the lining, with every line and dot numbered 
or lettered and referred to in these directions ; you will 
see design A A. 

1 1th. Place Front Chart with long straight 
edge one and a quarter inches from the selvage edge and 
high up on the lining and line along straight edge. See 
1 to 2. N. B.— Be careful to hold chart in place. 

1 2 til, Neck Scale A, in which find your Bust 
Measure, dotting through all the holes in the line in up- 
ward curve. See 1 to 3. Keep chart in place. 

13th. Arni-Hole.— Dot through the holes at 
your Bust Measure in scales B C D E F. See 4, 5, 6, 7, 
8. Keep chart in place. 

14th. Top of Darts.— Bear in mind always to 
dot through the holes at the right and left of your Bust 
Measure in scale G at the time you do the neck and arm- 
hole, but you must not dot the bottom of darts then 
See 9 and 10. Keep chart in place. The Top ©t 
Harts often appear too slanting when drafting 
Waists with small tapers; in such cases move the 
top of Darts forward to suit taste. 

15th. For the Side Seam —Place the tinge, 
of your left hand at your Waist Measure in scale H 
then follow out to the right in a straight line to youi 
Bust Measure in scale I, dotting through the hole) 
directly above and below your Bust Measure. See 11 
and 12. 



Cornwell's Improved Directions for Cutting. 25 

[Directions Continued.] 

16th. Remove the Chart.— Draw a straight 
line on lining between two dots last made extending the 
line above and below dots for extreme sizes. Draw 
curved line from dot to dot for neck. See 1 to 3. Draw 
3urve from dot to dot for arm-hole. See 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 

17th. Length of Waist and Side-Seam. 
-Place point J of Back Chart at the lowest dot in Arm- 
Hole, with scale edge to intersect the straight line. See 
11 to 12— at the figure indicating the length of your 
Waist and line along scale edge. See 8 to 13. 

18th. To Prove the Length of Front 
Waist measure from the highest point of neck down 
the lining the length of Front required, and make dot 
for waist line. See 3 to 2. Read 6th direction. 

19th. Bottom of Waist.— Replace Front 
^hart Square on the lining with straight edge at the 
Ine as at first, then move Chart Square up or down until 
Sloping Edge K is at the intersecting point at bottom of 
side seam— see 13— with right hand hold Chart down at 
;his point (while you move left side up or down to con- 
? orm to a measurement made down the front waist, if 
>ne has been taken)— see 2— then draw line along edge 
? rom intersecting point to left edge. Keep chart in 
place. 

2(Hh. Bottom of Darts.— With chart kept in 
jame position, dot through hole L, also through three 
loles in scale M, directly under your taper number- 
See L, M, N, O. For Taper Number, read "5th direction. 

21st. Top of Shoulder —Place at the upper 
leek dot on lining that point at the edge of chart in Scale 
1ST, which has your shoulder measure, having upper edge 
)f chart at upper dot of arm-hole and line along edge. 
3ee 3 to 4. 

22d. The Darts How to Mark Out.— 
Place point J Back Chart at upper left dot on lining 
with Dart Scale edge at lower left dot and line along 
Scale edge. See 9 to L. Turn-Over Chart, 
keeping point J at same dot with Scale Edge at the next 
3ot to right and line down. See 9 to M. To Com- 
plete the Back Dart use the three remaining dots 
m lining. See 10 N. O. by the same method as before. 

23d. To Prepare the Waist Line for an 
U nder Arm Dart place point J of Back Chart wrong side 
up at the crossing of the back line of back dart and the 

>j4 



26 CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting. 

[Directions Continued] 
waist line, with Dart Scale edge at the intersecting point 
of side seam and draw curved line. See to 13. ft. B, 
An Under- Arm Bart about one-and-three-fourth 
inches wide is required in all close-fitting garments. The 
chart is so arranged that an Under^Arm dart of this width 
is thus made necessary. 

24th. To ©raft Under Arm Dart.— Begin 
at the left lower dot in arm-hole (see 7) and line a 
straight edged Dart to curved waist line, and about \% 
inches wide at waist line— see 14, 15— and half way be- 
tween Back Dart and side seam. See to 13. 

25th. To Shorten the Shonlder and 
{Shape the Arm-Hole.— Place point E of the 
sleeve system on the shoulder seam at the required 
length for shoulder of dress, with upper end of sleeve 
at the left lower dot of Arm-hole, and draw line along 
edge. See 7 to 16. How to get this measurement see 
7th direction. 

TO CUT THE BACK WAIST. 

26th. Use the remainder of the lining still pinned 
together. Place the Back Chart high up on the lining 
with Scale Edge along the Folded Edge of lining. 

27 th. Back of Week —Dot through both holes 
in "Neck Scale 0." See 17, 18. 

28th. Arm-Mole.— Dot holes at your bust 
measure in Scales P, Q, R. See 19, 20, 21. 

29th, Waist Measure, Scale S.— Dot the 
holes directly above and below your waist measure in 
this scale. See S., S. 

30th. Remove Back Chart.— Draw a line 
on lining for back of neck. See 17, 18. Draw a curvec 
line on lining for arm-hole. See 19, 20, 21. Drav 
straight line on lining between two dots. See S. to S. Ex 
tending line above and below for extreme sizes. 

31st. Length of Waist and Side Seam 
—Place point J at the lowest dot in arm-hole, with scal< 
edge to intersect the straight line (see S. to S.) at the fig 
ure indicating length of your waist, and line along seal* 
edge. See 21 to 22. 

32 d. To Prove the Length of Bach 
Waist. — Measure down from back of neck on lining 
and make dot for waist line the length of back required 
See 17 to 23. Read 6th direction. 



Corn well's Improved Directions for Cutting. 27 

[Directions Continued.] 

33d. Bottom of Waist.— Draw straight line 
with edge of Back Chart square to the left from point of 
intersection at 22 to folded edge of lining, striking the 
measurement made down the center of back, if one 
has been taken. See 22, 23. 

34th. Shoulder Seam.— Place point T of Back 
Chart at neck dot, with shoulder edge at upper dot of 
armhole on lining and line. See 18, 19. 

35th. For Seam in the Back.— One-quar- 
ter of an inch wide at the top and three-fourths of an 
inch wide at the waist line. Draw line along straight 
edge of Chart. See 17 to 23. 

36t£i. For Back Form.— Turn over Back 
Chart and place hole U at middle dot in arm-hole, with 
Back Form edge at the waist line, the required width to 
make side body to suit the style, and draw line. See 20 
to 24. To make a straighter curve move chart up higher. 

37th. To Shorten the Shonlder and 
Shape Back ©1 Arm- Mole.— Place point E of 
the Sleeve System at a point on the shoulder 
seam, See 25, to correspond with^the front shoulder 
seam, with upper part of sleeve at lowest dot in arm- 
hole and line along edge. See 21 to 25. N. B— The 
back shoulder should be one-half inch tne longest. In 
sewing together the shoulder seams STRETCH the front 
in the hollow to match the back. 

SPECIAL SLEEVE NOTICE. 
38th. For Cntting a Perfect Fitting 
Sleeve. — See full and complete directions on the Sleeve 
System itself, and for design see black lines of both 
upper and under sleeve. 

39 th. For a Tight-Fitting French 
Sleeve. — See long dotted lines on design. First mark 
out on lining with Sleeve System in the usual way the size 
of sleeve required. Then make first dot at bend of arm 
" out 3^ inc i on the lining from edge. Place point A 
of System at 2 with inner edge at one and line 2 to 1 ; 
then swing System down enough to line 1 to 3. Turn 
over System and place point A at 4 with inner edge at 
point of elbow, and line 4 to 5. For under part of sleeve 
use the same method as before, and make sleeve smaller 
at the wrist to suit taste. 

For Sleeve gathered high at top add about one 
inch. See round dotted line over 6. 
_ £4 



%* — 1 

28 Cornwell's Improved Directions for Cutting. 

HOW TO USE THE CHART. 

THE SLEEVE S YSTEM.-T© Measure - 

Cut the Cloth, and Make the 

Garment, Etc., 

Other than by the following Directions, you will 
see "Directions for Using." Aside from these 
directions the learner will be referred to the printed di- 
rections on the Chart and Sleeve System themselves. 

It EAR IN MIKD that Correct Measure- 
ments of the person to be fitted are as necessary in 
the use of this Chart and Sleeve .System as to 

a tailor in cutting a coat, therefore be careful and 
put down on paper the measurements taken. 

BUST MEASURE.-In taking this you 
will stand behind the person and bring the 
tape around over the largest portion of the bust, and 
across the shoulder blades, at the back. (See cut of 
measurements.) Avoid drawing the tape too tight. 
When the bust measure comes between two sizes, take 
the largest one. Never measure over a loose 
dress. Should you find, in making up the dress, that 
the bust is either too large or too small, it is evidence 
that this measurement was wrongly taken. 

SHOULDER ME4LSURE.-Stand ai 
side ot* person, and if there seems to be any differ 
ence in the shoulders, measure both of them. (See cul 
of measurements) This hollow is located just above 
the upper edge of the clavical bone, where it joins the 
shoulder blade and collar bone. Its location is regular 
and its distance from the side of the neck correspond: 
exactly to the slope of the shoulder, and varies in lengtl 
in different forms from \% to 5% inches. The genera 
size of the person governs little, if any, the distance thi 
hollow is from the neck. With high and square shou 1 
ders this clavical bone or cap of the shoulder lies highe 
and flatter on top, and nearer the neck, making a shorte 
measurement. With sloping shoulders this bone turn 
over more, making, of course, a longer measuremen 

THE TAPER MEASUREMENTS, o 
Darts, are obtained by subtraction. 

For illustration— If a given Bust measures 38 inche 

and the waist 34 inches, the difference, 14 inches, wi 

be the exact amount which must be taken up in the dart 

* ^ ^ 



CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting*. 29 

[Directions Continued] 

KECK. SIZE. — The trimming down necessary to 
conform to this measure should always be done in front. 
Should you find, on trying on the dress, any wrinkles 
about the side or front of the neck, make up your mind 
that you have failed to trim out enough cloth in front. 

BACK FORMS-In trimming the cloth 
to conform to the back waist lining, after being basted 
together, allow three-fourths of an inch more of the out- 
side at the side seams, half way up the arm-hole, and at 
the bottom of the waist. This will provide for the welt 
in the forms on the back. Baste through the cloth and 
lining on the line marked out for the back forms, then 
fold up enough of the outside to form the welt, and 
baste through both the second time, after which stitch 
through the whole with a sewing machine. 

Jtt ARK. THE LINES of the garment 
through both thicknesses of cloth with a marking 
wheel, or crease them between the thumb and finger. 

N. B.— In cutting the cloth allow 1% inches 
for turning under in front. Allow three-fourths of an 
inch for all seams except in the neck and arm-hole. Sew 
up the seams on the lines. 

In sewing up the shoulder seams stretch the front 
cloth in the hollow to match the back. Turn the shoul- 
der and side seams forward and the darts back. 

SK.IJRTS. — In seaming up a skirt, a 1 fray 8 match 
a biased and a straight edge together. 

G A RIB 4 L IMS.- For cutting this gar- 
ment, add two sizes to the bust measure in 
"Row F'' in the front Chart and U R" in the back Chart. 
Gather into the front waist what would otherwise 
be used in darts, adding to the bottom of the back one- 
third more cloth than for a tight waist, the extra 
width to be used for gathering in. 

This rule of adding two sizes to the bust measure in 
"Rows F and R" holds good in cutting loose waists, 
sacks, coats, night-dresses and wrappers. 

IN CUTTING VELVET GARMENTS, 
unlike other goods, the nap must run up. 

Velvet and other Wadded Cloaks require 
an addition of two sizes to the ordinary bust measure in 
"Row F," on the front Chart, and five sizes in "Row R," 
on the back Chart. Keep all other measures without 
change. Make the desired curve in arm-hole. 



i 30 



Cora well's Improved Direct ions fi>r Cutting. 



OPES BACKS.— To cut the front, let the long 
straight edge of the front chart project one-half inch 
over the left selvedge of the cloth, then proceed in the 
usual way. To cut the back, place the straight edge of 
the back chart on the cloth, one inch back from the 
selvedge, drawing a line there on the cloth (this is for 
turning under), then move another inch further from the 
edge, drawing another line (this is for lapping), after 
which proceed in the usual way. 

LOW-IECEEO BRESSES.-First draft 
out on paper a plain waist from which the pat- 
terns may be cut. Place hole "U" of back Chart on the 
front shoulder-seam at *'l," two inches up from the 
point of the shoulder, and mark along the edge to "3," 
a point live and one-half inches below the neck. 
Then place hole "U" on the back shoulder-seam at 3, 
two inches up from the point of shoulder, and mark 
along the edge to 4, eight inches below the neck. 

YOKES.— As the following are loose fitting, al- 
lowance must be made (see "Garibaldis") in cutting 
the pattern for a chemise or a night-dress yoke. For the 
upper line of these yokes use the line of the "Low-neck 
Dress," as directed above. To get the lower line, invert 
the back Chart and place hole "U" at the fourth dot in 
the front arm hole at 5, and mark along the edge to 6, 
a point nine inches down from the neck. Then place 
hole "IT" at middle dot in back arm hole at ■?, and mark 
along edge to & s a point 1& inches below neck. The 
figures in above directions refer to following cut. 




*■ 



Shoulder Renins,- Special care should be 
taken that the front waist, which must be three-eighths 
of an inch shorter at the shoulder seam than the back, be 



. 80 

SELF-FITTING CHART. 31 

stretched, in the hollow sufficiently to match the back. 
N. B. — The sewing should always be exactly on the lines. 

BACK DART.— Be particular to stretch the back 
line of the back dart when sewing it together. 

UNDER ARM SEAM.— Be particular to draft 
the Front cloth one quarter of an inch shorter than the 
back, and in sewing together this seam stretch the front 
to match the back. 

FIT OUTSIDE WAISTS TO TIGHT LININGS — 
Sew up the darts in the lining. Begin to baste the outside 
cloth on at the neck, and continue along the shoulder arm- 
hole and side seam. Then gather in the fullness of the 
bottom between the back dart and the front edge. Take 
pains to shorten the cloth one inch in front, running back 
and out as far as gathered. Baste together both edges even 
at the bottom. In hasting on the outside to the 
hack, begin at the neck and continue along the shoulder 
and down the side seam. Gather in the fullness of the 
bottom, (which, like the bottom of a Garibaldi, is one- 
third wider than a plain waist,) except 1J inches at each 
edge. Baste together both edges even at the bottom. 

LAP IN FRONT.— The lap clown the front of 
the waist on the buttonhole side must be turned under. 
The other side must have a plait quarter of an inch 
wide turned toward the front, and one and one-half 
inches back from the edge. This is a stay to sew the buttons on. 

SEWING ON DRESS BRAID.— First shrink the 
braid, then hold it loosely when sewing it on. 

STRETCH SKIRT OF BASQUE.— That portion 
which passes over the hip should be stretched to 
conform to the swell of the hip. 

HOOK AND EYE PIECES.-Should be made about 
three inches long, sewing them in with the front dart, one 
inch above the bottom of the waist. 

WHALEBONES.— Should be one inch shorter at the top 
than the darts. 

CLIP THE SEAMS.— In tight-fitting Basques and 
Corsage Waists, clip the seams at the bottom of the waist 
to allow the skirt to spring out over the hips and prevent 
drawing. 

TO FINISH THE INSIDE OF THE WAIST.— Ar- 
tistically turn the side and shoulder seams forward and the 
darts back, trim even the raw edges of all the seams, then 
turn them in and stitch them through with a sewing machine. 

* 



*■ 



32 



Cornwell's Improved System of 




34: Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 

To Cut a Dolman Paper Pattern. 

REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN F. 

Take the measurements of the person and set ther 
down on paper as follows : 

1st. Bust measure. 

3d. Shoulder measure. 

3d. A measurement from a point on shoulder sear 
about one inch from sleeve down in front to bend in an 
with hand held in position just below waistline in fron 

4th. A measurement from neck band at throat dow 
to wrist with hand held in position just below waist line. 

5th. A measurement from the bend in arm held i 
position, toward the wrist the length of sleeve required. 

6th. A measurement from the back of neck down t 
waist line, thence down full length of dolman requiret 

7th. A measurement from the center of back at wai; 
line, the width across back piece required; usually aboi 
four inches. 

8th. A measurement from the center of Dust in froi 
straight around over fullest part of arm to center of bac 
with arm in position in front. This measurement dete ■' 
mines the size of sleeve. 

9th. A measurement around the body over fulle 
part of hips, to which add four inches for fullness. 

lOth. For the width of bottom of dolman add fou 
teen inches more to hip measure. N. B. Use one-ha 
this measurement for pattern. 

Prepare to Draft the Pattern. 

Take two sheets of heavy paper, say 24 by 86 inches 
paste them together, making large sheet 36 by 48 squari 
Place the front chart on left edge of shortest side < * 
paper and about six inches down from corner, hold cha 
in position, then place back chart wrong side up partial 
over it with straight edge along upper edge of paper 
right angles with front chart. Now move them into p 
sition so that with a pencil you can mark through bot 
charts together and at same bust measure in scale P ; 
back chart and scale "B" in front chart. Be careful ' 
keep the straight edges of chart at edges of paper ; wit 
charts held in position, dot out and draft necks in bo1 
front and back in usual way, keeping back chart wror 
side up ; remove chart. 
*_ 



Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 35 

[Dolman Continued.'] 

As you proceed to draft make dots and letters 
i pattern to correspond to design F, dot "A" being first 
ot made in pattern. 

Make dots "B" and "C" about one inch up the shoulder 
nes from dot A. 

To Draft the 3rd. Measurement— Meas- 
re down from B to D length required, placing dot D 
ime distance from left edge of paper as dot B. 
Place back chart (wrong side up) with hole U at dot B, 
ad line along curved edge to dot D. 
To Draft the 4th. Measurement— Make 
3t E at throat, then measure down edge of paper to dot 
, length required. 

To Draft the 5th. Measurement— Place 
Die U back chart at dot D with rounding edge at dot F 
ten line from D to G , length of sleeve required. From 
\)t G you can make different styles desired. 
To Draft the 6 th. Measurement— Use the 
>ng scale edge of back chart to line by and to meas- 
re length required from edge of paper at back of neck 
iar H down to dot I, which dot must be one inch in 
om edge of paper ; from this dot continue a straight 
ae down sloping out to edge of paper at J the length 
: dolman required. 

To Draft the 7th. Measurement— Make 
)t K at waist line square out on paper from I width of 
^ck piece required, make dot L square out on paper 
om dot J, making bottom about double the width as 
om I to K. 

To Complete Drafting of Back Piece- 
lace hole U back chart at dot C, with rounding edge at 
)t K and line along edge C to K, then continue down 
raight line to bottom at L. 

To Draft the 8th. Measurement— With 
pe line measure (at locations indicated on cut) the width 

the back piece from one to two together with the 
idth of the front piece three to four, adding together 
ese measures, and continue on the full length required 
locate dot 5. N. B. Dot 5 should appear at the same 
lgle and distance from dot A as 4, which position must 
s half way between B and D. 
To Draft the Sleeve — Place back chart hole U 

dot C with curved edge at clot 5, then line from dot C 
)wn full length of chart. Place straight edge of back 



IfJ ' 

36 Cornwell's Improyed System of Cutting. 

Dolman Continued. 
chart two inches up on line last drawn, and continin 
straight line down along edge of chart length of sleev< 
required. 

To Locate and Draft the 9th. Meas 

arement — With a tape line measure the width of th< 
back piece I to K, with this addition continue the meas 
urenient square out on the paper from dot F and mak« 
dot M at the width required. Place back chart (wronj 
side up) with hole U at dot D with rounding edge at do 
M and line D to M. 

To Draft the 10th.Mea8nrement— With tap< 
line measure width of back piece, L to J, with this addi 
tion continue the measurement of bottom of front O to I 1 
the width required. Now make dot N the same distance 
from dot M, as K is from L, draw a straight line fron 
M to N, thence out to O, the shape of bottom required. 

Line Q represents the under part of sleeve. 

To form the different styles of sleeves as shown d; 
lines in cut, use the straight and curved edges of chart t< 
draft by. 

To Draft Capes and Circulars— Measun 
the person from the back of neck down, length required, 
then proceed the same as for dolman to the completion o 
shoulder seams. Make dot P at the neck in the pattern 
Hold one end of tape line with left hand on dot P, wit] 
right hold pencil on measure at the length of garmen 
required, and swing line round from back to front fo 
the bottom of circle. 

SLEEVE.— The ordinary coat sleeve for a dres 
should be about one and one-half inches larger i 
the top than the arm-hole, thus providing for a sligb 
fullness over the shoulders. The upper portion of th 
sleeve should be about two inches wider at the arm-hol 
than the under poriion, gradually sloping to one inc 
wider at the wrist. Before putting in a sleeve with higj 
shoulder gather the top of it with a fine stitch. 

In cutting by our Sleeve System cut the cloth out 01 
the Hues, making no allowance for seams. In basting 
the sleeves always commence at the top. The sleev 
should be s ) put in the arm-hole that the outside sean 
will come directly over the point of the elbow when benl 
For a French, English or common sleeve see design. 



* 



A Few of the Iff any Patterns Cut by 37 

Cornwell's Improved Sleeve System. 

For Full Directions see Sleeve System. 

First mark out with 
Sleeve System, usual 
way, the size required. 
See black lines for 
Common Sleeve. To 
change this to a tight 
fitting English Meeve, 
simply make under 
part smaller at wrist 
to suit taste. See star- 
dotted line 7 to 4. To 
make a tight French 
sleeve make dot one 
at bend of arm about 
% inch on cloth from 
inner edge ; place point 
A of Sleeve System at 
2, with inner edge at 
one, and line 2 to 1; 
with left hand hold 
System down at one, 
and swing round and 
line 1 to 3. Turn over 
System and place point 
A at 4, with inner edge 
at point of elbow and 
line 4 to 5 . For under 
part of sleeve make 
use of same method as 
before. The long dot- 
ted lines represent 
French Sleeve. 

For sleeves with 
high shoulders make 
higher in proportion 
to the shortness of 
dress shoulder. For 
shape see dotted lines 
above 6, and where to 
gather, see to 0. 



Hb 




■* 



38 yvCornwell's Improved System of Cutting 



POLONAISE 

BASQUE & 

WRAPPER 




CornwelPs Improved System of Cutting*. 39 

| , ^ 

IDZESIGKESTS A. .AJSTO IB 

Represent FRONT and BACK of either 

BASQUE, POLONAISE, OR WRAPPER. 

For these Garments take the Bust Meas- 
ure, Shoulder, Waist, length of Waist, and 
length of Skirt, and other necessary measures in 
the usual way. 

TO CUT THE FRONT. 

REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN A. 

Draft Neck, Shoulder, Arm-hole, Under Arm 
Dart, Top of Darts, and Length of Waist in the 
usual way. See main directions for plain waist. 

Continue the lap line down in front the length of 
garment required. 

To Prepare the Waist Line for the under 
arm dart, place point J back chart wrong side up at 2 
and line along scale edge to 3. 

To Draft Under Arm Dart begin at dot 4 
three-fourths inch to left of lower dot in arm hole and 
line a straight edged dart to curved waist line and about 
one and three-fourths inches wide at 5 and 6 half way 
between 2 and 3. Continue this dart straight down six 
or eight inches to point 7. 

To Continue Down Side Seam of Skirt 
place straight scale edge of chart two inches up on side 
seam above 3 and make dot at G at edge of scale, remove 
chart and make dot 8 one-half inch to right of last dot 
made and line straight 3 to 8. To continue skirt 
down from 8, place hole U back chart at 6 with round- 
ing edge at 8 and line from 8 to point J, remove chart 
and continue line with same outward slope, shape and 
length of skirt required. If full draping is required 
continue down straight line from 8. 

To Continue Two Front Darts— Make dots 9 
and 10 from thirteen to fifteen inches directly below 
center of each dart and to these dots run the darts. 



-V 



4:0 Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 



[Basque, Polonaise or Wrapper Continued. \ 

N. B. — It can be readily seen that our way of locating 
the side seam is so proportioned that it comes down over 
back of the hip, thereby producing an elegant fit and 
narrow back so much admired. 

Wiien One Wart is Required in place of two 
in front, make dot in center of each dart at waist line 
and dots between two top and two bottom points and 
line out one dart by these four dots, in which event the 
under arm dart must be located half-way between 
front dart and side seam. 

A Basque Skirt is represented by dotted lines in 
both front and back designs. 

A Princess Dress is represented in design B by 
cross dotted lines. 

TO CUT THE BACK. 

REFERENCE TO DESIGN B. 

To Allow for Plaits place back chart square on 
cloth or paper four or six inches, on from left edge and 
draft neck, bust, shoulder, length of waist and side body 
in usual way. Draw line twelve from arm hole the 
length of chart exactly parellel with left edge of ma- 
terial. 

To Get Flare of Hip measure and line 13 to 14 
same as length of waist, then dot 16 half way between 14 
and 15, draw line from 16 up to junction of lines at 17. 

The Plaits may be higher or lower by moving 
lines a a to suit style. 

To Draft Side-body line square out to right 
from left edge through center of arm hole 18 to 19. To 
do this correctly use the full length and the square end 
of chart as try square and rule. Place straight edge of 
chart on line 12 with the bust measure in scale Q on line 
18, 19. Then dot through bust measure in scales Q and 
R and at the waist measure in scale S. Remove chart. 
Care must be taken to have line 20 parallel with line 12. 

Draft out side body b b same size as one in back piece 
except making the necessary flare to skirt by placing 
straight edge of chart two inches up the line above 21 
and continue same outward slope down to plait line. 

Continue J^kirt down the length required from 
22, either straight or sloping to suit style. 
* _, 



CornweU^lmproved System of Cutting, 4i f 

POLONAISE 
BASQUE &. 

WRAPPER 

19 




Cornwall's Improved System of Cutting, 43 

To Draft this "Walking Ooat, double breasted, 
place front chart on material 3 inches to the right 
from left edge, and proceed as in basque, except must 
add one size to the bust measure. 

In cutting the material, care 
must be taken that the grain of\ 
the doth runs precisely the same L 
as indicated by the fine lines in 
the cuts. 



■a 




u Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting, 




► *- 



BAND,MC NALLY A, CO.,ENQR'S,OHICAGO. 



Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 45 

Ladies', Misses' and Children's Perfect 
Fitting Drawers. 

REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN G. 

1st. Take measure from waist band, outside of leg to 
just below the knee. 

£d. Take measure around the body over the fullest 
part of hip, to which measurement add for fullness eight 
inches for large sizes, six inches for medium, and four 
inches for small. 

Bf . B, — Only use one-quarter this entire measurement 
in drafting the garment. 

3d. Take measure around the waist to which meas- 
ure add for gathers or darts eight inches for large sizes, 
six inches for medium, and four inches for small. 

N. B. — Only use one-quarter this entire measurement 
in drafting the garment. 

4th. Take the measure around the knee to which 
measure add for fullness from two to five inches to suit. 

TO DRAFT THE DRAWERS. 

fold your material lengthwise, keeping in mind you 
are cutting the back and front of one leg together ; this 
when cut and opened out, forms a perfect pattern. 

To Draft First Measurement,— measure 
from dot A to dot B length required. 

To Draft Second Measurement,— make dot 
C half-way between A and B then measure square across 
at right angles from dot C to dot D the {}£) width re- 
quired. 

To Draft Third Measurement for the 
Front Part, — measure square out to right from dot B 
the (34) width required to dot E, draw straight line B to 
E. Then place hole U at dot D with curved edge at dot 
E, and line E to D. 

For Back Part — use straight edge of chart to draw 
line from D to E, and continue line up to dot F, 2 or 3 
inches from dot E. Draw straight line B to F. 

To Draft Fourth Measurement— make dot 
Gr at right of A across bottom of leg, the width requiied. 
Place hole U (wrong side up) at dot D, and line down 
curved edge to dot G. 

These rules may be applied in cutting boys' pants by 
reducing the proportions. 

m 



« 



46 Cornwell's Improved System lor Cutting 




POSTILLION or 
RIDING HABIT. 



To cut this garment proceed as 
with Basque, making Front Skirt say 
4 to 6 indies long, to suit taste. 
Make Back Skirt fay from 10 to 18 
inches, or longer if desired. To 
shape Skirt of Side-body place hole 
•'IT" Back Chart, (wrong side up) at 
point a on side team the required 
length from waist line, with Back 
form Edge at b the required length 
of Skirt and line a to b. The Lap in 
Side-body c t > d should be about \}4 
inches wide for butfons or may be 
omitted and sewed up i f desired. 

Cr"IN CUTTING THE CLOTH 
allow % of an inc'i fo: all seans, ex- 
cept in the neck aud arm-hole. Sew 
up the seams on the lines. In sewing 
up the should' r seams, stretch the 
front doth in the hollow t~> match 
the back. Turn the shoulder ;>nd side 
seams forward, and the darts jback. 

N. B.— In cutting the Side-body care 
must be taken that the grain of the 
clo h in the curved part runs the 
same as in the back. 



© 




Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 47 




SACK CHEMISE 



Ladies', Misses' and Children's 
PERFECT FITTING. 



To Cut Sack Chemise.— Pro- 
ceed with the front chart as in 
plain waist, dotting out the required 
bust measures — leaving out the darts 
and lining only the shoulder and 
under-arm seams. 

Plaee dart scale of chart at last dot in 
arm-hole, with fig. 3 at dot A and fig. 6 
1% inches in from under-arm line at dot 
B; then line only from A to point J, dot 
C; this forms under-part of sleeve. 

Place hole U (wrong side up) at dot E, 
two inches up shoulder line from dot D; 
line along edee, E to C ; make dot F square 
out to left 2 inches from dot E and line 
E to F. 

Place hole U at dot F and line out neck 
by curved edge to G, as low as required. To 
form style of yoke desired, use curved and 
straight edges of chart to line by. 

RAND, Me NALLY & C0.,ENGR'S,CHICAGO. 



* 8 Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 




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■* 



To Cut a True Bias. 



49 



Place the selvedge of the cloth along the edge next to 
you on the table. With the right hand fold over point 
A to B, and cut through the fold at C C, removing the 
half square piece not to be used. Place the square end 
of back chart at D, and measure off along scale, square 
out at right angles from edge of cloth, the width of biases 
required, repeating like measurement from E, then line 
from edge to edge through these dots on which to cut off 
your bias pieces. 

SELVEDGE. 




SELVEDGE. 

AGENTS' GREETING-. 

By sending you this new circular we take pleasure 
once more in reminding you of the advance steps we 
are continually making in the art of dress-cutting. It 
is less than 3 year ago that our wonderful sleeve sys- 
tem first made its appearance, since which time more 
than 30,000 have been sold. Our self-fitting chart is 
growing no less appreciated, and doubling up in sales 
every year. 

We have in view for the future many inventions 
which we hope to complete, to the benefit of every owner 
of a Cornwell Self- fitting System. Few desires are 
greater in our hearts than to know the name, address 
and occupation of each and every one of our chart pur- 
chasers, that we may send something of value to them 
from time to time. 

We will always be pleased to reply to any question 
sent us concerning cutting, new styles, material, etc., 
etc. * Yours most respectfully, Willett Cobnwell, 



60 CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 

SELF-FJTTINC — 

System for Cutting Sleeves 

Of all sizes, for both Children and Adults, and works 
perfectly in connection with the Cornwall's Self- 
Fitting Chart in Dress-Cutting. 



* 



IDIHECTIOITS. 

1st. The figures in the scales "C," "D," "F," and 
"G," in this system, correspond with the Bust Measures 
as used in the Chart in cutting the dress. The same 
figures must be used in this system in cutting the sleeve 
to fit the dress. 

2d. Take the length of Sleeve from the back of 
armhole, over the elbow to the wrist, with the arm bent. 

3d. For upper part of Sleeve, place points A and B 
along selvage edge of cloth, dotting at "A" on the cl'^th 
as the point of beginning, then line along Scale edge 
from "A" toward "B," the length of sleeve required. 
Hold System in place. 

4th. Dot holes at bust measure, in Scales C and D. 
Remove System, 

5 th. Place point "E" at the dot on cloth made 
Scale U C," with the outer edge at the dot made in Scale 
U D" then draw a line from point "E," along Scale edge 
to the length of sleeve required. 

6th. Remove the System, and draw a straight line 
across to the wrist. 

7th. Place that point in Scale "F," indicating the 
bust measure at the dot on cloth made in Scale "C," with 
the oval edge at point "A," then line along oval edge 
from point "A" to dot. 

8th. For under part of Sleeve, place points "A" anc 1 
"B" along the selvage edge of cloth, then proceed as 
with the upper part of Sleeve, except us ng numbers in 
scale "6," in place of scale "C," and to draftthe armhole 
end use the curved edge at the right hand in place of the 
oval end at the 1 ft hand. 

9th. Cut the Sleeve out on the lines. Make no al- 
lowance for seams. In basting the Sleeve always com- 
mence at the top. The Sleeve should be so put in the 
dress that the outside seam will come directly over the 
point of the elbow when bent. 



Wfek^/i f^c^iVed d\I^(L 
w 3the^/\st ye ARSP 



S ELF F ITT 1 Nil 

^^Sfate^vaab ft, 

•^V' SLEEVE SYSTEM.*"^ 

Whitesboro, Tex., March 1, 1884. 

Mr. CORNWELL.— I have been selling your Charts for the past 
five years. I was left a widow fifteen years ago, since that time I 
aave tried school-teaching, keeping boarders and dress-making, and 
[ can truly say that I have never found anything that kept the readf 
money in my pocket to meet all demands like selling the Cornwell 
Oharts. I enjoy selling them because they give such perfect satis- 
faction. Ladies say to me, after using it, Mrs. Diamond, I would 
aot take any amount of money for my Cornwell Chart and do with- 
out it. Some say to me, I do not baste, but I take a correct meas- 
lre and sit down to my machine and sew it up for I know it's going 
:o fit. I have sold over 500 charts. Mrs. A. J. Diamond, 

General Traveling Agent for the State of Texas. 
Watertown, Wis., Feb. 26, 1884. 

WILLETT CORNWELL, Esq.—I would like to add one to the 
many testimonials as to the excellence of your Self-fitting Chart, 
ivhich in my estimation has no equal, though I have tried many 
)ther charts, found them all imperfect compared with this, 
tvhich I have used about ten years. I have been local agent for six 
fears for this vicinity, and during that time have sold here at home 
Dver 420, with full instructions, and think I may safely say that 
?very one has given perfect satisfaction. I sell to sub-agents and 
sveryone that leaves my territory for other places to work. Hop- 
ng you may always prosper, I am yours respectfully, 

Miss C. Gardner. 
Jeffersonville, Ohio, Feb. 2, 1884. 

WILLETT CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have been using your 
Jharts for dress cutting and fitting; am well pleased with it, al- 
ways having good success. I think I can sell several Charts, would 
ike to know what your terms are to agents. Please give me your 
>est terms by return mail for Sleeve System also. Respectfully, 

Katy Compton. 

Wheeling, Minn., Feb. 20, 1884 
WILLETT CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Would you please send me 
he price of your wonderful Self -fitting Chart. I have one ; I think 
.t is a gem. I can sell some here. I want to be an agent. 
) Lizzie A. John. 

Leaskdale, Scott Co., Ont., Feb. 4, 1884. 
Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I purchased one of your most ex- 
;ellent Dress Charts and am very much pleased with it. I have 
'riends that have seen its good works and want me to take the 
tgency. Please send me terms and instruction books, circulars, 
)tc, and oblige yours truly. Miss M. E. Murray. 



> ^ n i i ii i i in ■ in i i nirimniirM— — i— mmmim n - i m ,j 

CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 

Philadelphia, Feb. 21, 1884. 

Mrs. CORNWELL.— It affords ine, great pleasure to .be able to 
add my testimony in favor of the Cornwell Chart. I have used it^ 
successfully for several years, and would advise all persons who 
wish a perfect fitting dress, with the least trouble to purchase your 
system before they have such great demand that the price will go 
up in the same proportion. Mattie E. White. 

Philadelphia, Feb. 25, 1884. 

Mrs. CORNWELL.— I heartily endorse all the good things said 
of your Chart. I think it one of the best in use. Yours respect- 
fully, Mrs. L. Hindle. 

Head Lady in Dressmaking Department Custer & Son, 45 No. 8th 
stroot 

Johnstown, Pa., Feb. 21, 1884. 

Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I have come across 
marny Charts during my time of dressmaking, but always found 
yours the best yet. They are easy to teach by, accurate, and perfect in 
every style, and of all the hundreds of your Self-fitting Charts and 
most elegant Sleeve Charts I have sold so far, I have not heard of 
any complaint yet. On the contrary^ I have more calls for them 
every day and you may look out for big orders this season. All it 
wants is to show one of your Charts on the side of another, and it 
will quickly do away with it. I shall, before long, give you another 
good order. Since I started your Charts here, which is many years 
since, I have sold them to every dressmaker in town, not to speak 
of the hundreds of private parties who bought it after taking in- 
structions how to use it. Thev never fail and therefore I can rec- 
ommend them to every one. Yours respectfully, 

Mrs. Mart Ruth. 
Easton, Pa., Feb. 25, 1884. , 

Mrs. CORNWELL.— Having purchased one of your Self-fitting 
Charts in 1870, for my own use, and finding its great worth, I soon 
became your agent, and traveled with it through a number of cities 
and states, meeting with great success in cutting patterns and 
dresses of every desired style, without failing to obtain a perfecfJ 
fit. In 1876 the new} Improved Self-fitting Chart made its appear-' 
ance, of which I sold hundreds, and have instructed both young and 
old with pleasure and perfection, and during my travels often met 
agents with different models and systems, and by close examina- 
tion would challenge me that self -fitting could not be done, but af- 
ter a test they always acknowledged the merits of your valuable in- 
vention. Having been in your employ for over thirteen years, I 
should feel that I was imposing upon the public if I should at- 
tempt to sell any other, and no lady should be without it, there- 
fore I take great pleasure in recommending your Chart and Sleeve 
System to ail. Yours respectfully, Louisa C. Uhler. 

Winnebago, Wis., Feb. 23, 1884. 

Mr. W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Having within the last 12 
months bought one of your Charts, I find it far superior to any I 
have used before. I have been a dressmaker in Oshkosh for the 
last eleven years. Please send me one of your Chart books, circu- 
lars, etc., and greatly oblige Anna Phillips. 

Piketon, Ohio, Feb. 24, 1884. t# 

Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I am using your Self -fitting Char\\\ 
and like it very much; some of my friends wish to learn of me to 
use it. I should like the agency of your Chart very much for I 
think an agent would be sure of success with such a Chart to sell. • 
On what terms will you sell me your Charts. Hoping I may hear^j! 
from you soon, I remain respectfully, Amanda Rhoads. & 



, : — g| 

SELF-FITTINO CHART, 

Creal Springs, Williamson Co., 111., Jan. 16, 1884. 
Mr. CORNWELL.— Having purchased one of your perfectly-fit- 
ting Charts I wish to say I think it has no equal. I am thinking of 
'going to dressmaking for myself. I would like to know if you 
could send me some of your publications on dressmaking. I will 
send a stamp for pamplilet. Please send immediately for I may 
change my residence. I am a farmer's daughter. Yours respect- 
•fully, Miss Lina Anderson. 

Cape Neddick, Me., Feb. 11, 1884. 
Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL — Sir:— I am now acting as agent 
for your Dress-cutting System in this neighborhood, and have al- 
ready sold quite a number, for which I will send the order to you in 
the course of a few days. I wish you to send me all the inf oamation 
necessary for an agent. I wish also to know what is the price of 
the tracing wheels and if there is anything made in offering them 
for sale. I find your System takes well and that I can make ready 
sales for it. I purchased from Miss Wait, your agent. 1 remain 

Mrs. Chas. Templeton. 
Dodd City, Fannin Co., Tex., Jan. 23, 1884. 
Mr. CORNWEL.L.— I own one of your Charts, and can say this 
much : I would not do without it for anything. I know of so many 
that would buy them that 1 have concluded to take an agency, if I 
could make the arrangements with you. Send me twelve Charts 
and Sleeve Systems, tracers, tape lines, and instruction books (an 
outfit of twelve), and I will send you the money or will do any way 
I you instruct me to. I know a number of ladies that would buy 
| them if they only had some one to teach them their use. I feel 
> satisfied that I can do good work for you. Send the Charts imme- 
diately. Miss Sue McClary (teacher). 

Baraboo, Wis., Jan. 8, 1884. 

•'Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Having purchased one of your 

Self-fitting Charts and am very much pleased with it. I have used 

it six months and not one misfit ; no money could buy it if I could 

not have another. Wishing to be classed in your drawing and the 

'^enefit you confer, I will sell some of your Charts for you. Please 

| send me your terms, etc. ; write soon. Address 

Eva Schellenberger, dressmaker. 

SoduB, N. Y., Feb. 25, 1884. 
Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL— Dear Sir:— Having used one of 
your Self -fitting Charts for the past three years, and being very 
successful with it, I now have an opportunity of teaching some 
others dressmaking. I would like to know the price of the Chart, 
either single or by the quantity, and how soon I will receive them 
after sending. Please answer immediately as I am in somewhat of 
a hurry, and oblige, Miss Allie Haryet. 

Winnipeg, Manitoba, Feb. 6, 1884. 
WILLETT CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I have used your Im- 
proved Self-fitting Chart for over two years in Ontario. Since com- 
ing to this city, several parties have asked me to procure Charts for 
them. Will you kindly write me your terms now, as I may be able 
to make some sales. The one I have gives the very best satisfac- 
tion possible. I could not dressmake without it. Yours truly, 
£ t A. L. Allardyce, 25 Ross street. 

! Feb. 16, 1884. 

Lizzie S. Torrence, of Harshaville, Pa., says: I like your Chart 
\ very much after using and selling it for years. I have found your 

K" Sleeve System to be very successful. I never saw anything to equal 
it. Inclosed find names of last class taught. 



CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 



Delta, Leed Co., Ontario, Jan. 7, 1884. 
Mr. W. CORNWELL,— Sir:— I purchased one of your Charts 
three years ago and have been using it ever since with good suc- 
cess, and wanting to purchase one or more, and wishing to know \ 
your terms or get an agency, as there is no agent near here. I 
think I could do well as I am dressmaking under the instructions of 
your invaluable Chart. If you see fit I would be glad of tjie agency. 

Mrs. G. N. Huffman. 
Orr, Jackson Co., Minn., Jan. 5, 1884. 
Mr. CORNWELL— Dear Sir:— I purchased one of your Self -fit- 
ting Charts and learned to cut live years ago, and I have done some 
very nice work with it and I never had over one hour's instruction 
in all, but I am very much pleased with it and would like your 
terms for all kinds of your SystemSj as I wish to teach several 
others to cut. I am a teacher of public schools, a farmer's wife, 
and somewhat of a dressmaker. Please send me price list as I wish 
to purchase several Charts of you and teach others, and oblige 

Mrs. Emma Stoddard. 
Fort Plain, N. Y., Jan. 10, 1884. 
WILLETT CORNWELL— Dear Sir:— I would like a Chart and 
Sleeve System as soon as convenient. I don't think there is any sys- 
tem that will compare with your Chart and Sleeve System. I have 
an apprentice who wants one. I am in hopes to have a little time 
so I can introduce your Chart. Enclosed find $ . Yours re- 
spectfully, Jennie A. Campbell. 

Reading, Pa., Jan. 31, 1884. 
Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir :— Please let me know how you fur- 
nish your Improved Self -fitting Dressmaker's Chart to a dressmaker. 
This is my occupation and I shall shortly need a few of them to sup- 
ply my apprentices. I find the Chart to be a perfect, never-failing 
rule in fitting . Yours respectfully 

Mart A. Gruber, 207 North Sixth street. 

Doniphan, Hall Co., Neb., Jan. 14, 1884. 

W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Enclosed find money, for which 
send me twelve of your folding Charts and Sleeve Systems. I have^ 
been using your Chart for six years, during which time I have been I 
a very successful dressmaker. I have been almost too busy to sell 
many of your Charts. I have moved to this place and think I can 
sell your Chart without any trouble. Will you please tell me how 
you sell Charts by the hundred; have lost what you sent me, last 
summer, and I have forgotten your terms. I have already sold the 
Charts which I now send for so will patiently await arrival. I close 
hoping to hear soon. Mrs. M. M. Harrell. 

Hopkinton, Mass., February, 1884. 

Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Please send me one of Cornwell's Im- 
proved Self-fitting Charts as soon as possible. I am a dressmaker 
and have used your Chart for three years. I cannot find any fault 
with it whatever ; it is just splendid. I have learned several how to 
cut by your Chart, and they all think the same as I do. Please send 
as soon as possible. Address as above, box 267. 

Lizzie Murphy. 

Brownsville, Minn., Feb. 20, 1884. 
Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I wish to ask you for a favor ..^ 
Would you please send me the agency for the Charts, and will you J: 
please send me the price list. I want to try and canvass some. I 
learned dressmaking. I have one of your Charts and like it ever so 
much ; it is just splendid and always fits. I remain yours truly, , 

Minnie Baska. ' 

.. , -A 



SELF-FITTING: CHART, 



Alanthus, Mass., July 30, 1883. 
Mb. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Dear Sir:— I purchased five of 
your Self -fitting Charts about two years ago, and have sold all of 
^them. They have given entire satisfaction so far as I have learned. 
But owing to eickness I have neglected to report my success to you. 
I think your Charts are quite a saving or time and patience. I 
would not take several times the cost of mine and do without it, 
*or I prize it very highly. Yours respectfully, 

C. M. Grantham. 
Johnstown, Pa., Oct. 14, 1883. 
Mr. W. CORN WELL.— About nine months ago I purchased one 
of your truly Self-fitting Charts, and would not part with it no 
way. I have been doing plain sewing for some time ; could have 
done dressmaking had I known how to cut and fit, as I do now. 
Since using your Chart I have cut and made several dresses which 

fave entire satisfaction. Seeing in your circulars you wished to 
now the names of all using your valuable Chart, I give mine here- 
with. Mrs. E. fl. Ready. 

Huntsville, Tex., Oct. 26, 1883. 
Mr. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Sir:— Some time since I pur- 
chased your Chart and instructions from your agent, Mrs. Diamond. 
Afterward I bought 12 Charts for the purpose of securing the 
agency. 1 think the Chart more than a success, and want you to 
give me your agency terms immediately. I also wish the names of 
those to whom I have sold Charts classed together with my own in 
your sewing machine prize drawing for the sewing machine at the 
close of the year; you will find the list of names below. Very res- 
pectfully, Ellen Eastham. 
Dunkinsville, Adams Co., O., Dec. 27, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL. — Dear Sir:— I was an agent for your old Chart 
-.-,nd was very successful in selling. I made clear one day $27. 1 
have used the new one for seven years, with splendid success. I 
always thought I would get the agency for your new Systems, as 
they are still better and so much easier learned. I wouldn't take 
ten times the cost of mine and do without it. You will please send 
',me four of your Charts with sleeves. M. M. Scott. 

Ganges, Allegan Co., Mich., Nov. 3, 1883. 

Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— Please send me by 
mail one Cornwell Self-fitting Chart and new Sleeve System for 
cutting dresses. Mrs. Helen Miller. 

P. S.— We have used one of your Self -fitting Charts and Sleeve 
Systems now eighteen months, and we find it to be a perfect system 
for dress-cutting; we cut by its aid with perfect success, without be- 
ing taught by any one. Yours respectfully, H. M. 

Westfield, Chautauqua Co., N. Y., Dec. 31, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL.— Sir:— Four years ago I took of Mrs. Frank- 
land in Michigan an agency for your Charts. Immediately after 
sickness and death came near me and so placed me that I could do 
nothing with it. Since then 1 have used the Chart with complete 
success. I could not do without it. Now another lady here wants 
one, and as there are none of the kind hereabouts I hope to sell a 
number right here as soon as they see that others besides me can 
,nse it as well. Please send me information concerning agencies, 
Suiitc., what you will furnish Charts for, immediately, as she can hard- 
ly wait. I hope to do some good work for you here and yet beyond 
here. Hoping to hear from you soon, I remain a firm friend of 
. your peerless chart. Yours respectfully, 

Juliet S. Chamberltn. 



"* 



SELF-FITTING CHART. 



Rochester, N. Y., Dec. 14, 1883. 

Mr. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Dear Sir:— Are your supplement- 
ary diagrams for basques, etc., sent free ? If so, please send a few 
to my address. I am about to start on atrip south and westward* 
(first going as far west as Aurora, Ind., and perhaps into Illinois, 
where I have relatives). I shall want a lot of your Systems, for I 
do think it an excellent thing. It is what its name implies— "Self- 
fitting. " Hoping to hear and receive soon. lam in need also of 
Charts. Please tell me what you charge by the hundred. In- 
closed please find stamps for return postage. Please write at once, 
stating terms, etc., and oblige, M. L. Chauncey. 

N. B.— This lady is called the best dressmaker in the city. 

West Union, Fayette Co., Iowa, Dec. 13, 1883. 
Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Sir:— Inclosed find postoffice order for 

$ , for which please send me four of your Charts with sleeve. I 

have used those sent before. My apprentices are going out to other 
towns with them, which will probably call for others. I feel such 
perfect trust in the Chart that I am not at all anxious about their 
success, as I have when I was using other kinds. Send to the ad- 
dress as above, and oblige, Miss Sue Fox. 

Mount Vernon, Baltimore Co., Jan. 26, 1883. 
Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I am a dressmaker and have 
used your Chart for more than a year. I prize it very highly and 
would not part with it for one hundred dollars if I could not get 
another. I would like to get the agency for this place, if there is 
no other. I do not know of any other ; also of Montgomery and 
Prince George's counties. I have a great many relatives living in 
those counties. Please let me know by return mail. Truly yours, 

Miss M. Edith Farrall. 

Crystal Springs, N. Y., June 20, 1883. ' 

Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I received your package and I 

thank you for it. I like your Improved System very much ; I could 

not do without it, as I have a good deal of cutting to do. I can sell 

them easily. Yours respectfully, Ann Pitcher. ^ 

Philadelphia, March 4, 1884. 
Mr. CORNWELL— I have had your Chart in use ten years. It 
does ail that is represented for it to do ; I do not wish anything bet- 
ter. The Cornwell Chart is the fourth one I have learned to use 
and find it the best; gives entire satisfaction to my customers. I 
would have answered sooner but sickness prevented. 

Mrs. L. Forbes, No. 928 N. Eleventh Street. 

MRS. J. W. WELLS, Dressmaker, No. 882 State St., says: I 
have been a dressmaker for 24 years, and in that time have used a 
great many different models and charts, but until I purchased a 
"Cornweir 1 1 never felt that I had anything that I could confidently 
rely upon, but now after thorough and repeated trials during the 
past 9 months I am free to say that your chart by far excels any 
other that I have ever heard of or used. In fact, I consider it perfect 
in all respects. In dressmaking I find that no alterations are ever 
required, so accurate are all its rules. 

The measurement to the hollow of the shoulder fits all shaped 
shoulders and the rule for subtracting the waist measure from th# 
bust measure, fits elegantly any shaped bust, no matter how full it 
may be. 

This chart is very easily learned, as I had but about two hours in- 
struction in its use to begin with. J 

ft . 



SELF-FITTING CHART. 



Avening, Ont, Canada, July 9, 1883. 
j Mr. W. CORNWELL, Chicago, 111 :— I received your letter-cir- 
culars—terms to agents, etc. I consider your terms satisfactory. I 
I have already purchased one of your Charts from one of your agents, 
VMrs. Crozier, of Thornbury, and am glad to find it contains so 
F much detail in cutting, and I also feel confident that the simplicity 
of its working is such as will meet the approval of all who use it. 
I am a tailor and cutter, so you will understand that it is only oc- 
l casionally that an opportunity presents itself for me to make a sale. 
v However, I consider your terms very good ; I will do what I can for 
you and myself by selling the Charts. Yours respectfully, 

Joseph Kee. 

El Dorado Springs, Mo., May 4, 1883. 

Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— Would it be imprudent to ask 

"special" terms for three Charts with sleeves? I am surel can sell 

two ; I want to keep one for my little girl, Etta May, aged 10 years. 

She can draft a plain waist from watching me use the Chart. She 

asks me every time I cut a dress if I won't send and get her one — 

she must have one of your Charts, for they discount all others in 

simplicity and perfection. I feel like it is a duty to teach her to cut 

by measure and by "the infallible rule," I term it. I will send as 

soon as I hear from you, without fail, but my means are too small 

' to send for six or I would send without delay. If my health will 

> permit I shall try and sell a few out in the country. Doctors have 

given up my case. I shall work for you ; when you cease to hear 

from me I shall be "no more. " Yours very respectfully, 

Mrs. J. H. Ponsler. 
Circleville, Ohio, June 81, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir :— 1 will inclose money for one Chart 
for Mrs. Moore. I am very sorry I am not able to send for more. 
I have three girls learning the Chart. I have poor health and can 
jgpt do any better at present. I have found your Chart everything 
it is represented to be. By it I can cut and fit a dress in bed; I have 
done it frequently. I try to sell ail I can, and do all I can for it. 
Yours, and oblige, Sarah J. Downs. 

Oakley, Macon Co., 111., June 15, 1883. 
Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I purchased one of 
your Self-fitting Charts about three vears ago and would not do 
without it for |50. What would you furnish eight for ? There are 
several young ladies want me to learn them to use it. Yours truly, 

Miss Kate Alsbury. 
Peach Grove, Ky., Jan. 23, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL, Chicago, 111.— Having purchased your excel- 
lent Chart from Miss Bell McLachlan, I can with pleasure acknowl- 
edge the perfect satisfaction it gives. Also your Sleeve Chart is 
just splendid. There are several ladies that want your Self-fitting 
Charts, also the Sleeve Chart. Will you please tell me your terms 
and how I can get them by return mail. Send all information nec- 
essary, so I can send to you for the charts immediately. Yours in 
haste", Miss Alia Rouse. 

Coaticook, Prov. Quebec, Jan. 25, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have your Chart; have used it 
four years. Think it the best of all others. Three of my friends 
t iiish to have one. The one I have is your Improved Self-fitting 
Chart. My occupation is dressmaking and cloakmaking. In four 
years' practice not one bad-fitting dress have I had. Please what 
would be your terms for a dozen or more Charts ? 1 hope to hear 
from you as soon as convenient, and oblige, E. M. Blossom. 



"* 



CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 



Holton, Ind., June 18, 1883. 
Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have given your Improved 
Self-fitting Chart a thorough trial, and find it much superior to any 
I ever used. Inclosed please find payment for 4 Charts and Sleeve 
Systems and one 10 cent stamp for circular. Please send immedi- 
ately and oblige, Miss Flora Lemen. 

Ottumwa, Iowa, Oct. 23, 1883. 
Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Sir:— Inclosed please find post office order, 
for which send me (by return mail if possible) four Self-fitting 
Folding Charts. All that I have sold give good satisfaction. I can't 
see how I did without one myself so long. I expect to always keep 
one, for I would as soon do without my sewing machine. I expect 
to sell more after these. Mrs. A. W. Buchanan. 

Biggs Sta., Butte Co., Cal., June 15, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have sent a post office order to 
pay for two improved Cornwell Charts and the new Sleeve System. 
Please forward as soon as you get this letter, and oblige. I would 
say I cannot take the agency, as I haven't the time at present, and 
do not know of any lady who will take the agency. I have used 
your Chart for five years and have made a splendid success with it 
as a dressmaker. It may be so I can take the agency soon. Please 
send by mail, and oblige, Emma Sparks. 

Salt Springs, Ga., June 16, 1883. 
Mr.WILLETT CORNWELL.— Sir:— I write to know what you 
will let me have a Sleeve System for. As I have one of your Charts, 
I would like the Sleeve System to complete my dressmaking. I 
would not be without the Chart for ten times the worth of it. Per- 
haps I can sell some Charts for you in the fall. I have sold 12 
Charts that I got from your agent, Mrs. Price. I will try and see 
what I can do. I want the Sleeve System for myself. Please write 
me ; you will find a stamp inclosed to pay postage. Yours respect- 
fully, Prisctlla Dinean. 
Rome, Oneida Co., N. Y., Dec. 29, 1883. 

Mr.WILLETT CORNWELL.— Sir:— Please find inclosed $ , 

for which I wish you to send me one of your Improved Self -fitting 
Charts with Sleeve System. Having used your Chart the last three' 
years I find nothing equal to it, and presume I could sell more of 
them than I have, Dut am not in circumstances that I have the 
means to order a quantity at a time. As I am an old friend to the 
Chart cannot you give me a certificate of agency and allow me to 
sell them? Very respectfully, Mrs. M. M. Trenham. 

Mill Creek, Bourbon Co., Kan., June 29, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL.— Sir:— I would like to know your terms to 
agents for your excellent Chart. I think I could sell some in Fort 
Scott, unless you have an agent there. 1 obtained mine of Mrs. Mc- 
Collister, who lives five miles south of me. I can say for a truth 
that the Self-fitting Chart does all that it claims to do. I got mine 
about one year ago last March. 1 have not had the least bit of 
trouble; can take the measure and cut and make a dress without 
changing a stitch, and feel that I could not get along without it. It 
is like the love of God in the heart— too good a thing to keep still. 
I want to persuade others to buy them. Yours truly, 

Mrs. Nannie Stewart. 

Alpena, Mich., June 3, 1883. * 

Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have used your Chart for over 

10 years, with the greatest satisfaction for myself and others. I 

could not get along without it any more than I could without my 

sewing machine. Very respectfully yours, Mrs. H. E. Smith. 



CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 



Grant Park, Kankakee Co., 111., Nov. 12, 1888. 
I Mb. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Dear Sir:— Will you please In- 
form me by return mail what you can furnish me the Cornwell's 
Belf-fitting Chart with CornwelPs Self-fitting System for Cutting 

Ileeveafor? I would like to act as agent for you, as there is no 
gent in this neighborhood. There are a few wanting Charts right 
'away, if they are as good as recommended, and I can say for one, 
that 1 don't want anything any easier and more reliable than the 
IJornwell Chart. I have used one of them for a little over a year, 
Wnd have never had to refit a single waist; but it is useless for 
me to waste my time telling you what it will do. Hoping to hear 
from you soon, I remain yours very respectfully, Eliza Rbbd. 

Joplin, Jasper Co., Mo., Nov. 6, 1883. 
Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Inclosed you will find money, for which 
I wish you to send me one dozen Charts and Sleeve Systems. When 
I receive these it will make 28 1 have got from you. All I have sold 
give satisfaction. It is most two years since I saw your advertise- 
ments and sent for a Chart. I have cut a great many dresses by it, 
basques, loose and tight-fitting waists and polonaise ; in fact, I never 
use patterns for anything, and I have never made a misfit or had a 
dress to alter ; in fact, I have cut dozens of dresses and never had 
any of them to find fault. I might have done better with the Charts, 
but I have been sick and crippled so I could not canvass as I would, 
but I think I shall do better now. Please send me designs for ladies' 
clothing by mail. Mrs. Mary J. Strickland, Dress Maker. 

Sibley, Osceola Co., Iowa, Oct. 22, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL:— Having used your Chart for several years, I 
now take the liberty of addressing you. I am a seamstress, con- 
sequently I am at a great many places. I owe all my success to 
your Chart, and think I could do good if I had an agency. Please 
write me as soon as convenient, as I have a number of friends who 
ai i waiting for me to hear from you, as they all wish a Chart. Do 
you ever send your goods C. O. D ? Respectfully, 

Nannie Edmondson. 
Henrietta, N. Y., Sept. 3, 1883. 
Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL, Chicago— Dear Sir:- Having 
used your world-renowned Chart for some eight years, I am very 
much pleased with it, and know that dresses can be made to fit ele- 
gantly without once trying on. I am persuaded there is no system 
Invented possessing superiority over it. I am a dressmaker. Please 
Bend me some of your books and price-list ; I wish to become one 
of your agents. Several here would like to purchase your Charts. 
Yours truly, Mrs. Mollib F. Dawson. 

Orion, Mich., July 10, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL:— Please send me a price-list of your Dress 
Charts, also a description and price-list of your Sleeve Charts. I 
have owned one of the Dress Charts several years, and it gives 
complete satisfaction. Yours respectfully, Mrs. D. L. Brown. 
Beacon, Mahaska Co., Iowa, June 20, 1883. 
Mr. CORNWELL: — I am reading through a circular that was sent 
to Emma Harrold. I saw that you wished to know the address and 
occupation of each of your Chart purchasers. I have had one of 
your improved Self-fitting Charts for seven years and I like it splen- 
did. I do not see how we could get along without it. I have four 
Bisters beside myself, and I do the sewing for all and for some other 

feople. I do not know what my occupation will be yet, but I think 
will follow the dressmaking business. Yours truly, 

Clara McCrba. 



SELF-FITTING CHART. 



Fond du Lac, Feb. 5, 1884. 

Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Please send me a couple of your 
printed envelopes, as I wish to send for Charts right away. How 
much are they now ? You remember me as buying several of you, 
I have used your System ever since I did dressmaking, which is 
eleven years. I will need several pretty soon for apprentice girls. 
Some say when I get tired of dressmaking I will take an agency 
and go traveling for awhile. I could sell heaps] of them. lam 
counted the best dressmaker and cutter. I received first prize for 
the best fitting dress on the most disagreeable figure that could be * 
found in the city at the State Fair. Send envelopes as soon as pos- 
sible, for I want to send for Charts by return mail. Please address 
Mrs. Norris Brown, corner First and Macy street. 
Philadelphia, Feb. 25, 1884. 

Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I take pleasure in saying that I 
have used your Chart constantly for the past twelve years, during 
which time it has given me perfect satisfaction, and I know of no 
other for which 1 would be willing to exchange it. I have also 
taught your System for several years and have always had the most 
pleasing results from my pupils. Hoping your Chart may be as 
successfully used by others as by me, I am yours very respectfully, 
L. E. Yarnall, 1202 Chestnut street. 
Red Wing, Minn., Jan. 2, 1884. 

Mr. W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I have been using your Self- 
fitting Chart for three or four years. I don't think it can be beat, 
for I have the very best of luck fitting dresses ; 1 work at dressmak- 
ing ; there are several ladies who want Charts. Please tell me what 
terms and how I can get your Charts and Sleeve System of you. I 
want to send you the money as soon as I can hear from you, for as 
many as I can sell. Please send me all the information necessary. 
Yours respectfully, Mrs. Mathilda Erickson. 

Poughkeesie, N. Y., March 3, 1884. ' 

W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Having purchased one of your Im- 
proved Self-fitting Charts four months ago of a dressmaker resid- 
ing in Wilbur, N. Y.,I wish to say that I think it has no equal. I 
am a dressmaker, and since using your valuable Chart I give entir^ 
satisfaction to my customers. Please send me agents 1 terras and 
oblige, Miss Tina Mathies, 42 N. Water street. 

Sedalia, Pettis Co., Mo., July 12, 1882. 

WILLETT CORNWELL, Esq.— Dear Sir:— Inclosed find $ 
for one of your Improved Self-fitting Charts. I have used your 
most valuable Chart with satisfaction^ mvself and customers for 
several years, and feel that I could not do dressmaking for the 
public without it. I have had the misfortune to be burned out, 
and lost everything, even my Chart; have nothing to work with 
left. I feel that the first thing to begin business with again is to 
secure another Chart. Have had the offer of the Magic Scale and 
many others since the fire, but could not think of using any but 
yours. Please send by return mail, and oblige, 

Yours most respectfully, Mrs. L. J. Muncey, Dressmaker. 
Burlington, Vt., April 13, 1882. 

WILLETT CORNWELL.— Sir:— Here enclosed you will find P. 
O. order for the required amount of Charts, which please send by 
mail. You will also find 25 cents enclosed for postage. If this ?3 
not enough, please send C. O. D. Trusting you will oblige us im- 
mediately, we are, Respectfully, 

Ward & Hempy, Dressmakers. 

P. S. — We use your Chart and do not think there is another that 

can compete with it in the United States. W. & H. * 

i- , H 




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*" 



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*■ 



BOILED DOWN. 

WE WANT AN ACTIVE. ENTERPRISING 

LADY TO WORK FOR US IX 

EVERY LOCALITY. 

To procure your best efforts to introduce 
our System of Cutting in your vicinity,we will agree to sell 
to you direct, at our lowest prices, the same as we sell 
to agents, any number you may wish— one Chart 
with Sleeve System, $2.50 ; 4 Charts, $6 ; 
with Sleeve Systems, $2 extra; one dozen 
Charts with Sleeve Systems, $20 ; this last 
order entitles the purchaser to a Certificate of ex- 
clusive Agency. Hope you may be our agent. 

For this System you would have to pay an 
agent at retail from $5 tb $8, while many successful 
agents even get $10 to $12 for it. 

Now, if yon will send ns $2.50 in our return 
envelope, we will return to you by mail one of 
our Improved Self-Fitting Chart and 
Sleeve Systems, (providing you do not take advan- 
tage of a larger order at lower prices,) when you will 
soon find that you would not take $10 for your 
pupchase, but would have on hand a System that 
will cut every garment worn by Ladies, Misses and Chil- 
dren, without paying a profit to a middle party. 
You can buy all you want of ns 
and sell them anywhere there is no agent at work, 
and make the usual profit in the business. 

To speedily introduce our System into your 
locality, we make this liberal promise that if you 
send us an order, and afterward wish to exchange back, 
we will return you the money free. 

Now, if you cannot send us an order yourself, 
but will induce some smart business Woman to take 
our offer and send us an order for not less than $8, 
we will give you a Chart and Sleeve System free. 

If you can d© no more for us, be kind 
enough to send US the names and addresses, plain- 
ly written, of all the Dressmakers, Milliners, School 
Teachers, Agents, Canvassers and Smart Business Wo- 
rn, n you know of, and we will reward you for 
it. Send stamps for our New 68-page Book on 
Dressmaking. WIIXETT CORNWELL, 

4229 Wabash Ave,, Chicago. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



(314 061 943 7 




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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 






014 061943 7 • 



